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Which Rust Proofing Service Is Best?

Which rust proofing service is best?If you visit the southern USA, you will see all kinds of late model vehicles on the streets that look like they were just driven off the lot. Unless you garage your vehicle in the winter and only drive it during the summer months, you won’t see that here - snow, salt, and rust make sure of that!

Using good rust protection can prevent thousands of dollars in costly repairs and stop the metal body from wearing out long before the engine and other parts are ready to call it quits.

Want the best rust proofing there is? Download the PDF version of this comparison article.

That’s not just my own anecdotal evidence talking either, of which I have plenty. The Canadian Army has actually commissioned several studies on the benefits of rust proofing their vehicles and equipment. They’ve concluded that rust proofing definitely inhibits rust but the real kicker is that not all rust protection products are created equal, far from it.

My Personal Experience With Rust

My first experience with rust was when I was still a young lad and I was standing next to my grandmother’s new-looking first generation Ford Escort hatchback that was more than a decade old. My father carefully explained to me that the reason the car was in such good shape was because it had been Rust Checked every year since it was new. He pointed out all the Rust Check stickers lined up side by side on the back hatch window that proved it.

That lesson stuck with me and I’ve used Rust Check on my vehicles ever since I was a teenager in an uncharacteristic example of brand loyalty on my part.

My First Car (Used)

My very first car was a used 1996 Pontiac Sunfire GT that was a gorgeous metallic blue. Even though it was just a Sunfire, I really loved that car! The lines were pretty, the stock wheels were sharp, and the interiour glowed a very cool looking red in the dark. I took really good care of my new baby and Rust Checked her every year religiously.

I never had much in the way of problems with rust up until I sold it in 2005. I did have one big rust spot form around the opening to the gas tank because I was a bit sloppy when gassing up and let little bits of gas spill on to the nearby paint. Over time the gas ate away at the paint and allowed it to rust. That kind of thing can’t be prevented with Rust Check because it’s the paint’s job to protect all painted surfaces. I shouldn’t have been so careless.

I had that one rust spot fixed and the car still looked practically new when I sold it at almost 10 years old.

Related: How To Make Your New Car Last Forever

My Second Car (New)

Having just scored my dream job at a local software company working for peanuts, I made the classic mistake of feeling like I “deserved” my first brand new car to celebrate. Looking back, that probably wasn’t the smartest thing to do at the time but I graduated without debt and had some savings, so there you have it!

My choice? A brand new 2005 Mazda 3 GS in Carbon Gray Mica with a manual transmission. That car drove like a dream and is the easiest shifting manual I’ve had the pleasure of driving. Zoom zoom!

Rust Check? You betcha!

Rust problems? Actually yes…

The year was 2010, my 3 year bumper to bumper warranty had expired but I happened to notice the car also had a 5 year corrosion warranty. Just before my 5 years was up, I spotted what looked like a barely noticeable paint chip along the wheel well and that’s just what I thought it was, a paint chip. Paint chips obviously aren’t covered by the warranty, but I took it to the dealer anyway knowing my warranty would expire soon.

Related: 11 Tips For Getting The Best New Car Price

To my great surprise, they offered to get it professionally repaired free of charge lickity split, which I later found out was because the rust was due to a known manufacturer’s defect. The wheel well was actually completely rusted out but it was all hidden underneath the paint. That may not seem like a win for Rust Check, but now that I was aware of the problem I saw many other 2005 Mazda 3s that had massive rust spots in several places including much bigger problems with the wheel wells, so mine was clearly rusting significantly slower even given the defect.

When I finally sold the Mazda 3 in 2013, the buyers had their mechanic inspect it and he said it was one of the best looking 2005 vehicles he’d ever seen. I think that is proof enough that the car held up comparatively well over time.

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What Rust Protection Is Best?

These are the typical choices you have for brand name rust proofing:

There have been several tests run by the Canadian Army on which rust proofing product provides the best protection. You can read the 2006 report here and this post at RedFlagDeals summarizes the results nicely.

The Best Protection

The clear winner in the army tests is Corrosion Free! They found that Corrosion Free was more than 90% effective at inhibiting rust even in the harshest climates. The next closest product was only 70% effective and to my great horror Rust Check was rated at under 40% effective.

That’s what I get for being brand loyal all these years without doing my research! Rust Check definitely works, but I could have been doing so much better all along had I known.

The Best Warranty

The warranty by Rust Check and Krown only covers rust originating from the inside of metal panels and excludes floorboards and sometimes roof panels. They also require an actual hole in the vehicle before they will honour the warranty. Corrosion Free is the only one to cover all body panels and have no restrictions on where the rust originates from. They also don’t necessarily require a full hole before getting it fixed for you. You can read their full warranty sheet here.

Application Interval

Rust Check and Krown require reapplication every 12 months to keep your warranty valid, whereas it is 18 months with Corrosion Free. Less appointments and less hassle, sounds good to me.

Related: Cheapest Products By Month

Cost Comparison

It typically costs between $100 and $150 per year to get an oil based rust prevention product applied, which is expensive, but if it keeps your vehicle on the road for 5 to 10 years longer, it’s definitely worth it.

Krown and Rust Check have similar pricing that starts at $120 for the smallest vehicles and moves up to a high of $150 with Rust Check and $140 for Krown. Krown is, however, more generous in their vehicle size pricing as well ultimately making Krown the cheaper option.

Corrosion Free doesn’t publish their prices on their website so I called my local dealer to inquire. The price for most vehicles is $150 and it’s $20 more for larger vehicles and SUVs. That is for the Complete Protection Package, which is definitely the one you want and the most comparable to Krown and Rust Check’s service. On an annualized basis, it’s actually cheaper than the other guys too costing $100 every 12 months averaged out.

Related: How Much Should Car Repairs Cost?

Does It Damage My Vehicle?

It is possible for these oil based solutions to slightly damage the rubber seals on your vehicle, but other than that they are completely safe. Krown’s product is known to cause the most damage to seals so they will usually apply a protective coating to prevent any damage. If one of your seals does become damaged, they will typically replace it free of charge if you bring it to their attention.

On my Sunfire and my Mazda 3, my hood seals did become extremely floppy from the Rust Check. Those seals are pretty much non-essential so I never thought much of it. I only found out I could have requested they be replaced while doing research for this article. Again, Corrosion Free scores points for the least damage to seals. I read multiple reports of people using it without any noticeable damage.

The only slightly annoying thing you will notice, is the oily residue that is left behind by the rust treatment. It is particularly noticeable in the engine compartment which tends to eventually look quite black and dirty as grime clings to the oily substance over time.

Do They Drill Holes In My Car?

When I first learned that they sometimes drill holes in cars to gain access to the inner panels for a better application, I was quite concerned. However, after having it done myself and having read about it extensively in forums online, I no longer believe it to be a concern.

If necessary, they drill very small holes in very inconspicuous locations that nobody will ever see. Once the application is complete, they plug the holes with small rubber stoppers to prevent the oil from leaking out and water from getting in. Nothing to worry about.

A Warning About Canadian Tire

Unfortunately, the most common dealer for Corrosion Free is Canadian Tire and many areas have no other dealers to choose from. After reading multiple horror stories about terrible car service at Canadian Tire over the years, I am loathe to ever take my car there for service. If you can find a Corrosion Free dealer in your area that isn’t Canadian Tire, then that would be my recommendation, otherwise you might want to consider Krown as a good-enough second bet.

I’m honestly still on the fence about what I am going to do for rust protection in future years. It seems obvious that I should ditch Rust Check and I would love to move to Corrosion Free, but rust protection is only as good as the person applying it. Taking my cars to Canadian Tire just gives me the quivers. Although, I’m thinking I might just cave, close my eyes, and hope for the best.

What To Avoid

There are other types of rust protection on the market other than oil based products. Many dealers will offer a one-time undercoating for a fee of $500 or more. There are also some electricity based products that keep a live current going through the metal in your car that is supposed to prevent rust.

Everything I’ve read indicates that these types of rust protection are inferiour and should be avoided. Undercoatings in particular can actually cause rust if they crack or are applied incorrectly allowing water and salt to get trapped between the coating and the metal causing it to rust faster.

What Type Of Rust Proofing Do You Use?

Many Canadians use some form of rust protection on their vehicles. I’d be interested to know when you’ve used in the past and how effective you found it to be.

Disclosure: Some links in this article may be affiliate links. We're letting you know because it's the right thing to do. Here’s a more detailed disclosure on how HTS makes money.


gcai's picture

Have never used any rust proofing and never had significant rust problems.

I keep my cars a long time - last two were 13 (Toyota) and 15 (Subaru) years old when they left my ownership.

I think the key is to keep the vehicle clean and that does mean washing it (by hand !) even in the middle of winter and using LOTS of water to rinse off the salt - have never used car washes as they recycle water i.e. brine after the first few cars.

The annual rustproofing check charge is one I'll forgo.

January 06, 2015 @ 7:46 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

That's an interesting strategy gcai. It's definitely important to wash your vehicles regularly, especially in the winter. I can be a bit lazy when it comes to washing so I definitely benefit from the added protection of rust proofing. If a person is as dedicated as you are, then I guess you could save some money on rust proofing and still do OK on the rust front but I don't think I'd want to chance it myself.

I also had no idea that they recycled water at car washes. I will have to check with my local car wash to see if that is the case for them because having my vehicle sprayed with salt water doesn't sound like a very good idea!

After reading a bit online it looks like they filter the water quite well and then use 100% clean water during the final rinse. It'd be interesting to know how much salt is present in the recycled water for sure!

January 07, 2015 @ 10:46 am
Werner's picture

Yes they recycle the water at all car washes.
The water is supposed to be desalinated 100% and then used for washing. I definitely don't think they use such a system
As you said the quality of applying rustproofing depends on the person who does it. Absolutely true.
Same with the car washes. If the owner is greedy the filters would the last concern and probably purchased from "Dollar Store"

January 17, 2016 @ 2:39 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

It's hard to know who you can trust for sure. There are so many wrongs that can be easily hidden.

January 20, 2016 @ 4:49 pm
mike's picture

No, all car washes do not recycle their water. if they do it is only used in high pressure applications and not on any rinse applications. The brine is how they neutralize the water and soften it.

October 12, 2017 @ 4:51 pm
Ern Bieman
Ern Bieman's picture

Hi Stephen,

I know that in the sailing world, a water-maker capable of desalinating a few gallons per hour starts around $4K.

I doubt very much that a car wash could stay in business, and desalinate their water to any significant degree.


March 09, 2016 @ 5:41 pm
Sandy's picture

Thanks. Very informative. I just bought two older vehicles. A 2006 Passat and 2006 Tundra. I have a number of spots on the Volkswagen and was recently informed by another owner of their 12 year rust warranty regardless who owns it. I took it in and they are deciding now whether the spots are covered by the warranty. Heres hoping. My Tundra was imported from the States so I am going to check with a dealer there on their recall on the frame. The previous owner checked in Canada but nothing was listed. I was told to check with a dealer in the States as it wouldn't be listed here.

I have never been a used car buyer but now that I am I want them to last so I will be going to Canadian Tire. Thank you.

January 09, 2015 @ 10:31 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Wow, what a fantastic corrosion warranty by Volkswagen! I had no idea that there were warranties out that that lasted THAT long. Good luck getting it repaired under warranty and I'm glad this helped you out.

January 09, 2015 @ 1:32 pm
mike's picture

I've been using Corrosion Free for years. The only problem I've encountered is with my 2007 F-150 rear wheel well (just above the tire). The paint was bubbling. The Ford dealer washed its hands of it, out of warranty. Corrosion Free to the rescue. The truck had been rustproofed yearly by them; they repaired it free of charge. Apparently, the design of the vehicle prevents the rustproofing from reaching the area in some cases. The estimate for the repair was 1200$.

January 15, 2015 @ 9:45 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Great to hear of a success story with rust proofing and that they will honour their warranty even when it's difficult for them to apply the product in all the right places. You paid for the cost of getting the rust proofing applied basically for the life of the vehicle in that one repair and surely have avoided several other problems.

January 15, 2015 @ 3:17 pm
twotone's picture

I live in Denver. What is this "rust" you speak of?

January 15, 2015 @ 12:58 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Play nice! *goes off to cry in a corner while looking at the mountain of snow outside*

January 15, 2015 @ 3:18 pm
Jinno's picture

Hi Twotone,

I'm from Denver. And vehicles rust there like anywhere else in the mountain states.
Denver uses a chemical treatment to line the roads in winter. This is corrosive as salt.

February 03, 2016 @ 11:31 pm
Mike's picture

I just bought a one owner 2003 Toyota Corolla 4 dr, auto with 50,000 km.....which is why I bought it. Car was never rust proofed and has quite a bit of surface rust on top of both rocker panels.....most on front driver side door....presumably from salt residue from shoes/boots. I will never use the car in the winter and I'd like to get 10 more years out of the car. I'm having the rocker panels repaired at local body shop. I was planning on getting the car rust proofed once rocker panels have been repaired and then not rust proofing in future years since I won't be driving the car in winter/salt conditions. My questions are; would I be trapping any accumulated salt by applying rust proof on a car that's 12 years old? Should I have the underside pressure washed before applying rust proof? In order to get 10 more years out of the car should I continue to rust proof every year? All input welcome.

January 16, 2015 @ 10:11 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Mike, I believe that rust proofing the car after you get the rocker panels fixed will be a good idea for sure. I don't think you have to worry about trapping salt at all but getting it well cleaned before you take it in isn't a bad idea. These rust proofing products are meant to seep through water, grime, and salt to get in direct contact with the metal.

I think you would be better served by continuing to rust check every year especially if you want to get 10 more years out of the car. Cars still rust even in the summer and it has already had a good start on developing rust. Even with rust checking a car that old, you will probably still have the odd rust problem but it will definitely be much less.

January 16, 2015 @ 10:44 am
Paul's picture

You might want to check into the vehicle history a bit before spending a lot of money on the car. I also have a 2003 Corolla that has 112,000 km on the odometer. I am the original owner and so I know the car has 412,000 km on it. The odometers in these cars stop working at 299,999 km and must be replaced with a new one that starts at 0 again. There's a good chance yours actually has 350,000 km on it.

January 30, 2016 @ 10:49 pm
Joe cletese
Joe cletese's picture

Thanks for the great article Stephen Weyman... I own a 2001 Marcedes Benx C240. I purchased this car because it's a Benz and supposed to last for ever! Right? No wing about our Ottawa winters and what salt does to our vehicle, I asked the dealer to have the car under coated and which rust proofing they would recommend. I was told that the car came with the Mercedes under coating and and the way that the car was constructed, I did not need any under coating, therefor, I did not need to undercoat. Well, after a couple of years, I began to see what seemed like stone chips a lover the hood, roof top and on and on. Bringing the car to the dealer, Star Motors, in Ottawa, ON and complain, they refused to deny that the paint was defective and as I was told, 'all Mercedes are painted this way and that's the way it is'. It was getting to a point when while driving, if a bug and I were on a collision course, I would grinch at the thought of " goes another paint chip!!!" Meanwhile the car silver grey colour looked spotty brown. After a couple of years in the "boxing ring" with the dealership, Star Motors came up with a proposal that they would, get this, replace the outer removable body panels and repair the non removable panels at a cost of approx. $11K. I refused of course. Back to the boxing ring. It was finally agreed to split the cost three way, half by Mercedes Benz, and the other half by myself and Star Motors. All is well it should be, you think? Less then a year later, rust began to develop above the rear tire wells on both sides where the body shop did the repair. Back to the boxing ring. Star Motors had the repairs done under warranty, great you say. Well not more then three months later paint bubbles started to develop again. Boxing ring. Repaired again. Back to the boxing ring, you get the picture, but this time with the body shop manager where he had the idiocrasy of telling me that it's not guaranteed and that rust can come back after just a few months. Now, I am not a bodyshop expert, but if the work is done right, rust will not re-appear just 2 months later. This repair process went on for four times and to this day I stopped going because they were not capable of doing the proper body rust repairs, the car now has rust holes above the wheel wells.
So thank you Mercedes Benz and Star Motors.

January 16, 2015 @ 11:25 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I'm sorry to hear that Joe, sounds like a terrible ordeal. That is one potential negative of rust proofing a car under warranty is that it could mask rust problems that would otherwise be noticeable before the corrosion warranty expires.That's why you have to pay really close attention to any forming rust right before that happens.

What you went through is inexcusable though. A painted surface shouldn't rust like that after a couple of years.

May 23, 2015 @ 8:45 pm
Mike Franzgrote
Mike Franzgrote's picture

Having purchased a new VW Jetta, last summer, I regrettably did not get into the rust proofing shop before this past winter. I suppose it's not a really big deal but I will definitely look after that this summer. I am of the belief that having the procedure done in the warmer weather allows for improved penetration in the small crevices of the car's body panels. I previously owned a 1997 Dodge that I purchased used from the original owner and drove it for six years, putting almost 300,000 kilometers on the car before it just wasn't realistically worth spending a $1000. on a new timing belt. I had faithfully Rust Checked the car every fall and found one rust spot when I brought it to the wreckers. This spot was almost centre of the leading edge of the roof and no doubt, the result of a stone chip some time ago. I was pretty happy with the Rust Check, except of course for the oil drippings and smell in the week or so following the procedure. I will start searching around for someone who does the corrosion free procedure and try to get that done well before the fall this year. Thank You very much for the advice on this and many other topics. Your site makes for some good reading as well as providing useful and practical advice.

May 21, 2015 @ 12:27 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I doubt that one skipped year will make much of a difference. I do try and do mine the first year but you shouldn't have any problem qualifying for the warranties if you get it done this year.

Thanks for the kind words about the site Mike and I'm glad you found this article useful.

May 23, 2015 @ 8:47 pm
Paul Raines
Paul Raines's picture

I have a 1996 Chey Astro mini-van with 176,000 kms. I bought it in 1997 with 11,000 kms. I used Rust Check for years and the van has remained rust free with yearly applications. I switched to Krown last year after a poor application of Rust Check buy new franchise owners. Working under the van I noticed it was coated like a Ziebart rather than a liquid like Rust Check. I found a spot that was a bubble on the frame. I scrapped the bubble off and it was rusty on that spot.
Now I am confused about which brand to use. I have never heard of Corrosion Free but like most knowledgable car guys
I never take my van to Crappy Tire for any work. They always come back saying this or that needs repair. That is their job to
generate business. I will look for a Corrosion Free dealer in my area. If I don't have one then I have to decide between C T or Krown. I am surprised at the low rating of Rust Check. The previous franchisee did a great job and every spring there was
Rust Check creeping up the outside bottom of my doors. To me that meant that the Rust Check went through the seams of the door.

July 16, 2015 @ 8:59 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Rust check definitely isn't bad, it still works for sure! The Canadian army just discovered that some of the other products work better is all.

I know that sometimes they offer different types of applications. Like at Rust Check they now have a "dripless" formula for Rust Check that is quite different thank their original formulation. Is it possible you got a different formulation at Krown? I've never been there myself so I'm not sure how it works with them.

If you've had good results with Rust Check, I don't think you probably need to change if you could find a decent dealer to apply it. However, if the only Rust Check place has bad applicators and Krown isn't working well for you, then you probably aren't risking much giving CT a shot for rust proofing only if you want to try Corrosion Free. Best of luck with your choice!

July 16, 2015 @ 10:57 pm
peter's picture

I also have used rust check for years on every vehicle I have owned . We take all 4 cars in on the same day every year for the respray. All the cars and trucks I have had done since 1997 when I first started using them have been great . I have never had a rust spot on any of them and I tend to keep my vehicles along time, 10years average. People always ask me why my cars never rust. I swear by rust check. I even get used ones done and they never seem to get any worse then they are at the point of the first application. So you can imagine my shock at the low rating rust check received . My father had an old K car he had done at Krown and it rotted away pretty bad but I think he may have not kept up the yearly applications or missed a few. I have a truck that only gets driven in the winter on the worst snow conditions you can imagine and its 15 yrs old and not a mark on it
. My wife and My sister both bought new PT Cruisers in 2001. Ours was rust checked yearly ,my sisters was not.. My sisters was a disgusting rust bucket after about 8 years and had to scrapped it was no longer safe for the road. Ours we sold to a friend in 2013 and she is still driving it and has kept up the rust check and it still looks awesome no rust at all.So I think anyone who keeps a car longer then 5 yrs is nuts if they don't get it done... FYI I am not a rust check dealer or affiliated in any way shape or form , just a car guy with too many toys I cant afford to have rust away. My only beef is the constant need to wash away the seepage that creeps out of the seems all the time and the mess on your hands when you need to work under the hood etc. but that's a small price to pay ..

June 28, 2017 @ 8:57 pm
Joel Brayman
Joel Brayman's picture

"Proof is in the pudding." If you plan to keep your vehicle 7 or 8 years or longer I cannot recommend Krown highly enough. I used Krown on a 1997 Ford Expedition and had the vehicle for over 12 years and put almost 300,000 km on it. The body looked new when we eventually got rid of it and people could not believe it was old as it was. I also Krowned a 2004 Honda Accord and put 460,000 km on it over 11 years and we just sold it for $1700 in a day despite the very high mileage. The reason - the car looked great with no rust. We just bought a new Accord and I am rushing to our local Krown dealer this morning to get it rust proofed. Over and above the benefits of no rust, the one aspect of Krown rarely talked about is how it lubricates all areas of your car and makes it easier to buddy and garage owner has commented about this while working on our cars for years.

Now that I have been using Krown for over 15 years and on numerous vehicles, I feel pretty comfortable making a strong recommendation. Like changing your oil regularly, getting Krown applied each year will protect your investment, keep your car looking great and make it easier to maintain. If I sound like a Krown commercial it is only because I have first hand experience with its benefits and on a bunch of cars. It works.

August 21, 2015 @ 9:00 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Ya, I sound like kind of a commerical for rust proofing in general too but it really is because it is so worth it. 

August 22, 2015 @ 1:21 am
Taylor's picture

After reading the posts and some research on the web I decided to go with the Corrosion Free on our 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan. I definitely stayed away from the manufacturers rustproofing because it was only done one time. When i bought my 2003 F 150 it was done by the dealer. After 5 years it started to rot out and I wasn't gonna go that route again. I was kinda leary about going to Crappy T for the application. " Figured I don't need any extra tools left in the van" Went on Corrosion Frees web site and found Fine Details in Peterborough. Phoned them up and spoke to Mike who was very informative about the product. Brought the van there and got it sprayed. Very happy with the application. Hopefully this stuff works i guess time will tell.

August 25, 2015 @ 2:39 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I'm planning to switch to Corrosion Free myself from Rust Check this fall. I finally found a place about 20 minutes drive away that isn't Canadian Tire to do it. I'm excited about that! Hope it turns out to be as good as it sounds and the research suggests!

August 27, 2015 @ 11:03 pm
Jass's picture

Its a good post.After reading all i wanago to Corrosion Free .Any one suggest me which shop is best for price and service? How much you pay and how long you have to stay there ?In or around Brampton/Mississauga will be preferred.


August 30, 2015 @ 3:55 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

This is not my area so I have no idea.

I would suggest you use the Corrosion Free tool to find shops in your area and just call them quickly for a price quote. They will probably all be the same or very close. I wouldn't spend a lot of time on it.

August 31, 2015 @ 11:07 am
Pavel's picture


After reading this article, I went with Corrosion Free. Crappy Tire wanted $130 for a car, so I phoned an independent dealer. Turns out they have a promotion: Complete package for $100 for a car..

Popular Car Wash & Detailing
131 The West Mall
Etobicoke, On
M9C 1C2


If I understood them correctly, they are open 7 days a week.

P.S. Cash is not accepted. But they accept debit/credit, including AmEx.

P.P.S. I'm not affiliated with that dealer in any way. I just had a great service experience (technician took about 45 min to do my vehicle). Crappy Tire said that it takes 30 min.

October 10, 2015 @ 8:38 pm
Paul's picture

I had my wife's car done at Popular Car Wash and I won't be going back. They applied way too much inside the doors. It was dripping onto the garage floor for a good three weeks after application. They didn't do the trunk lid or either of the rear quarter panels. Those are the most critical parts. I had to do those myself.

January 30, 2016 @ 11:19 pm
Todor Stamatov
Todor Stamatov's picture

Hello. What i should buy for rust-proof, given that i live in Bulgaria? How can i purchase some of this product and which one should i get?

September 18, 2015 @ 8:31 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

That's a good question Todor. I don't know what the products would be that are available in your area. You'll have to do a bit of digging yourself. Just stick with a spray-on product like the ones I listed here and you should be good.

September 21, 2015 @ 3:32 pm
Terry Sansford
Terry Sansford's picture

I went online this morning to do a search for best results of rust proofing and came upon this site. This is the most current an unbiased site I found. I have a 2015 Dodge Ram that I intend to get rust proofed within a week or so. I was leaning toward Krown but I think I may reconsider and do Corrosion Free. The only place that can do it in my area is Canadian Tire. I will check for references in the area. My question is, Is there a better time in the year to get this done. I have no choice but to get it done in the fall but, have I pushed it off too late. There is no snow , ice or salt flying yet.

Appreciate your feedback.

October 23, 2015 @ 9:50 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I consider the best time of year to do it to be the fall, but that isn't based on empirical evidence. I've ready other opinions that the time of year really doesn't matter as the protection lasts equally well throughout the year. Salt is the big worry of course, so I figure having the thickest coat before winter is best.

Now that I am switching to Corrosion Free myself and you only need to do it every 18 months, I guess I will just alternate between fall and spring.

October 25, 2015 @ 8:26 pm
tomahawktim's picture

The best time to have the vehicle sprayed is summer when the weather is warm.
Any warm spell during the spring or fall would be fine also.
The spray can wick it's way into minute nooks and crannies a lot better if everything is warm.

September 20, 2017 @ 3:00 am
Antonio Oliveira
Antonio Oliveira's picture

Another fan of Corrosion Free 3000 here. Have been having my two vehicles (Corolla and Sequoia) treated over the past few years and could not be happier with the results. As other members have mentioned, the quality of the protection you get is highly dependent on how well the product is applied. On that note, if you are in Mississauga and vicinities, I would highly recommend Robinson Automotive. Just Google these guys out. The shop owners Kirk and Mike Robinson (father and son), are the same guys who host that auto show on Rogers TV. After the Corrosion Free product is sprayed and while your car is still on the hoist, they will bring you over to supervise the results of the application. This is great, as nothing is better than seeing the results with your own eyes. As part of the package, they will also do your doors, wheel wells, trunk, hood, etc... And again, you can inspect the results and get your peace of mind. The only downside is that price wise, I believe Robinson does charge a little more than the competition (just had my vehicles done yesterday, Oct 27, 2015 and paid $159 for the Corolla and $199 for the Sequoia, before tax), but again, this is one of those cases where you get what you pay for. As I plan to keep these vehicles for a decade at least, I think it is worthy it in the long run.

October 28, 2015 @ 4:50 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Knowing the application is done right is definitely worth it! Also, with only having to go every 18 months that reduces the price compared to the competitors a fair bit too.

October 30, 2015 @ 11:28 pm
Patrick's picture

I have been Rustproofing vehicles for the last Thirty years….I have prepped every car for treatment, thats one of the key points to a good job…..We have documented all the vehicles going back to the early eighties. each manufacturers, each Model, and by year. Where to make entry points and where to use factory entry points. We keep the application as seamless as possible. undercarriages are all in my head, and also the technicians, that have been with me the last 20 years. I own two 20 year old Toyota vehicles and one 22 year old Lexus Vehicle.
Annual sprays makes a big difference. the proof is looking underside of the vehicles that were treated properly from new , compare to those , that come in after the factory warranty has ran out…Big mistake for most….
Toyota and Lexus, probably the best common sense builders in the Industry. you just have to look underside and compare to others….remember bad body construction and materials is not to blame on Rustproofers, regardless of what they treating your vehicle with…We have seen it over the years, from paint bubbles on new cars, to metal breakdown because of poor sheet metal from suppliers to manufacturers…keep on top of your stone chip , do not wait for it to turn rusty red, you are now in a whole different can of worms at this point. I could go on and on about the subject… Lexus we are constantly pursuing perfection on how to apply the product into areas, most people do not even know exist… I like to let my customers watch it done from start to finish sometimes. most common remark is , they never did that part before, or I did not know you could get to that area without making a hole….
Experience! I treat all cars as if they were mine…….Good luck to all….Keep them clean…….
Our holes are painted and greased, before application, after plugs with the product is used …started this back in 93….

October 28, 2015 @ 10:33 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Nice to hear that there people who care so much about this process Patrick. If only every person who was applying rust proofing cared as much as you do!

October 30, 2015 @ 11:30 pm
Roberto's picture


You obviously care about doing it right. Where is your shop located?

November 01, 2015 @ 5:55 pm
Patrick's picture

Markham and Finch, Scarborough…….416-754-2128

December 08, 2015 @ 9:46 am
Daniel's picture

I like the fact that you treat the holes after protection is applied Patrick! I had a bad experience with Zeibart back in the 90's. Where they drilled the holes in the vehicle was the first place the car began to rust. They did not want to fix it and when they finally did they did an inferior job! By the way Patrick where is your shop located or can you recommend anyone in the Richmond Hill area of Ontario.

December 04, 2015 @ 2:58 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Since two people have now expressed interest in Patrick's shop location, I will send him an email and request that he come back here and leave the contact details for his shop. I don't normally allow people to advertise their business in the comments, but when there is a demand for someone who has genuinely tried to help out other commenters, I don't have a problem with it.

December 07, 2015 @ 10:04 am
Patrick's picture

Dan My shop is located at (Markham and Finch) Scarborough….South East Corner… Give us a ring before you come in ….416-754-2128…. No German cars Please….

December 07, 2015 @ 9:53 pm
Martin Bourgault
Martin Bourgault's picture

Why don't you want german car ?

April 29, 2017 @ 1:09 am
Michel's picture

Can you buy corrosion free from can tire and do it yourself?
I know they sell rust check can, but havent see any corrosion free.
Inguess you need about a gallon to do a whole car. I have an oil shooting kit.

My friend use a mix of 50% Used Engine Oil and 50% diesel for his car and agricultural machinery.
It seem to work and its cheap

November 01, 2015 @ 8:57 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

You can buy the Corrosion Free liquid online in their online store, but it doesn't look like you can buy it in-store at Canadian Tire. Maybe they are trying to make sure people aren't DIYing it to make more money (don't know) or they have an in-store exclusive with Rust Check (who knows).

Anyway, try picking it up online if you really want to DIY.

November 02, 2015 @ 2:40 pm
Mike's picture

I just purchased a 5 gallon jug of Corrosion Free, and an RP 460 HD Lemmer spray kit to apply it. I just purchased a truck before Christmas, a 2012 GMC 4x4 with 65,000K. The body is rust free, but the chassis looks worse than my friends 2011 with 190,000K on it. I did my research before purchasing this stuff, and since I have access to a shop with a hoist, applying it myself was a no brainer, since Canadian Tire is the only place near me that does it... Yeah, that wasn't happening. LOL It cost $550 for the product and application kit. I was very happy with the Lemmer kit, it had all the attachments I needed to reach every little crevice. It took at least 3 hours to do the entire truck, even with experience, I can't see it taking any less than an hour of constant spraying. The stuff is nice to work with when compared to the oil based products like Krown or Rust Check, it really doesn't smell at all, just a slight waxy odour. I also found that it atomized very well, going on completely clear, no white spots where air is trapped.

Time will tell me how this product actually works, but I'm encouraged by the reports I've seen so far. I know the application was done well, we coated EVERY nit of the under carriage, and every single hem. GM trucks have excellent access holes for getting to the rockers and door hems, as well as to the back cab corners... All in all, very pleased with the application process of the product, much less overspray than with Krown, and the odour was not offensive at all. We sprayed both trucks very thoroughly, using roughly half the 5 gallon pail.

January 24, 2016 @ 1:57 am
Mike's picture

I should add... not a single drip came off the trucks during the application process. It's been in my garage for 4 hours now, still not a single drop. I can tell you for certain, that when I've used Krown or Rust Check in the past, there have always been plenty of drips by now... so far, so good!

January 24, 2016 @ 2:04 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Excellent additional detail Mike. Great job doing it all yourself. After a few years, come on back if you remember and update us on how your trucks make out in the rust department.

January 24, 2016 @ 7:29 pm
Patrick's picture

Both Engine Oil and Diesel are toxic, also careful not to get near exhaust system, might have issues.
RUST CHECK is non toxic. and has a high flash point.

December 07, 2015 @ 9:56 pm
Ron's picture


I purchased my Mazda3 GT new in 2005. I had it Krowned the day I bought it, and every year since. Average cost $105 +tx a year.

Obviously, you are well aware of the first generation 3s issues with rust, and it was so bad that Mazda extended their rust warranty to 7 years for 04s 05s and 06s. I drive my 3 daily and through all the grud the winters bring here in Toronto. They love spreading that salt here btw, anyways 10.5 years later not a spec of rust on any body panel and I have been told by several technicians that the underneath of my car is the best they've seen for my era. I wash her religiously and keep her well waxed, paying special attention to prone areas aswell.

I've read up on Corrosion free and it sounds enticing, only issue is I haven't seen too many testimony's to its abilities, atleast not as many as to Krown, which has thousands.I will continue to use Krown for this vehicle but will consider Corrosion free for my next.



November 02, 2015 @ 2:57 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Nice to hear from another rust-prone Mazda 3 owner Ron. Sounds like you made out even better with your 3 and Krown than I did with mine and Rust Check. A lot of that is probably due to your washing and waxing as well. Unfortunately, I just can't find the time to keep up with that stuff even though I want to.

Great info, thanks!

November 03, 2015 @ 11:17 am
Ian's picture

I use Krown, which many reports indicates is best. Corrosion Free is thicker, but Krown creeps into every nook of tge vehicle, protects wiring and motors as well.

November 09, 2015 @ 10:35 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Well, I can't really speak to the creeping aspect. I know they pretty much all claim that they have creeping action but I don't know of any study that has proved one creeps better than the other. If you know of such a study you can link to, please do so.

EDIT: I just finished reading through the following forum thread. At first they make it sound like Corossion Free doesn't creep, but in the end it is revealed through observation that it doesn't drip but does indeed creep. Good read for those who are interested:

November 09, 2015 @ 7:36 pm
Gisele Thibeault
Gisele Thibeault's picture

I have heard that Corrosion Free blackens the engine. Is that true? I have a 2010 Suzuki SX4 with low mileage and when I lift the hood, the engine looks brand new. I would hate to see it all greasy and black.

November 09, 2015 @ 11:25 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I think most/all of these spray on products will blacken the engine. I don't know that for sure, but that has definitely been my experience with Rust Check. It is simply oil that can be wiped off, but it isn't pretty.

However, I'd rather have a car that lasts and looks good on the outside. I'm willing to deal with the dirty engine compartment.

November 09, 2015 @ 7:35 pm
Gisele Thibeault
Gisele Thibeault's picture

Thank you for your input Stephen.

November 09, 2015 @ 11:48 pm
Jamie's picture

I recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota. The previous owner said that he sprayed Rustoleum non-rubberized bedliner spray on the underneath of the vehicle. There are a couple of rust spots that I have taken care of since purchasing the vehicle a few months ago. I would like to keep the vehicle for several years so would like to use a good rust proofing product. I initially was going to use a product called Fluid Film until I recently heard about a product called Krown. In doing some research to compare the products I came across this website and heard about Corrosion Free. I went to Corrosion Free's website and there is a place in Masury, OH which is about 60 miles away that applies Corrosion Free. There is a place about 15 minutes away that applies Fluid Film. If you were in my situation which would you choose provided both places do a good job installing the products (not sure how I can find out how good a job each place does at installing the products)?

November 14, 2015 @ 5:06 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I know nothing about Fluid Film, so I can't really say how it will perform in the long term. I would do your research on that and look for forum discussions about it comparing it to other products. 60 minutes is a bit of a long drive to go for Corossion Free though. I might opt to go with Krown in your case if they had a place close by that applies it.

In terms of installing the products, look for a place that specializes in rust proofing over a place that does a lot of different types of work first of all. Then, start asking them questions about their application process and you could even ask them if you could watch them apply it to see exactly what they do.

November 17, 2015 @ 11:59 am
Patrick's picture

Funny listening to all these comments, on the different Rustproofing Companies, I can tell everyone is young, Both Krown and Corrosion Free..were all started by form RUST CHECK personel….

Rust check original formula if sprayed on any brand new car , that has no previous, wax or tar materials on it gets you the best result, Providing its done properly….thats the key. thats where most Companies fail. owners are never under every car to see if its done properly. Thats going to be my Legacy when I retire. and my customers. already started to panic…ha!

AS for Mazda yes they are prone to more corrosion, some from lack of good materials, throughout the underbody, and some of the older generations. rear tire give those rear fenders a blasting. If you look at Toyota products …see what they do in those areas to counter that issue. Also try not to love tap the back bumpers. usually end results are bubbles on the paint around the areas where its attach to rear quarter panel…

Mazda should never be drilled in Rockers also. in front of Rear tire there is plug there. remove and run a long tube to the front and spray, also there are a few underbody cross section that have plugs to remove and spray, some of the holes are taped up just punter and spray inside. Keeps brine and water away from potentially exposed metal and welds. Good luck to you all.

December 07, 2015 @ 10:12 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Thanks for the additional commentary Patrick.

December 08, 2015 @ 4:47 pm
dave's picture

I have used Krown in all my vehicles. I had a 2002 Montana van and after six years gave it to my
daughter ,who kept it for another five and not a speck of rust on it.The same as my 2008 Santa Fe.
No rust after seven years. The only problem is the dripping on the road or driveway for a couple of days.
But if it is dripping off,then I know it is seeping into all the nooks and crevises

November 14, 2015 @ 6:51 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Yes, Krown is undeniably a good product. One pro of Corossion Free is that it drips a whole lot less. I addressed the creeping issue in a comment a few above yours.

November 17, 2015 @ 12:00 pm
Mike's picture

Actually, the way I look at it is; if it's dripping off, it has inferior adhesion, gravity is pulling it away from the hems it's supposed to be protecting.

January 24, 2016 @ 2:14 am
Anthony's picture

Any tips on finding a good shop to do your rust proofing at? Checking the Krown and Corrosion Free websites indicates that neither has a dealer in Edmonton and some of the Rust Check locations seem to be closed.

November 21, 2015 @ 3:49 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Wow, someone could be set to make a killing in Edmonton then as there really are limited options. I wouldn't be concerned at all about going with Rust Check. I have been using them for years with good results. You are still going to get value for your money, just maybe not quite as good as you would at Krown or Corrosion Free.

Rust Check also has a new dripless product. I'm not aware of any studies on that product, but it is possible that it is formulated more like Corrosion Free. Since it is a newer product, it stands to reason that they would have tried to make it as good as possible to better compete. You could ask them about that when you go in the first time.

November 23, 2015 @ 8:58 am
Raymond K
Raymond K's picture

Patrick: Why " no German cars please" ? I bought a 2015 VW Golf. Is it necessary to do rust proofing as VW offers 12 years warranty on Rusting?

December 19, 2015 @ 9:02 pm
lucretius's picture

I have a 2013 Volkswagen CC -- black colour.

Rust/paint peeling began to appear on/near the rocker panel by the drivers door of my car. Volkswagen Canada denied the rust claim under warranty.

On December 17, 2015, I took the car to the dealer to show the rust coming from underneath and eating away at the paint on the rocker panel. The dealer took pictures and submitted them to Volkswagen Canada. Yesterday (i.e. one and one half months later), I learned that Volkswagen Canada denied the claim stating the rust and paint peeling was caused by "outside influences".

This is preposterous. The rust was bleeding through from underneath causing the paint to peel away. This damage is located on or at the rocker panel/door sills by the driver's door. The damaged spot is protected by the driver's door, so that it is not exposed to flying debris from the road.

There is no evidence of "outside influences" as claimed by Volkswagen Canada. There is no lack of care, or failure to promptly repair. I did not get any third party rustproofing done, so there was no use of any inferior rustproofing agent or method. There is no evidence of environmental damage.

This is Volkswagen Canada's method of denying warranty claims. Although Volkswagen Canada has a 12 year warranty against rust, this warranty appears worthless.

February 02, 2016 @ 1:08 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Wow, that's really bad. I'd consider trying to either push this up the chain at VW or getting in touch with the media. Bang down VWs doors on social media and see if you can get the email addresses of some of their head honchos.

You might also give Ellen Roseman a try. Send her the pictures and describe your situation and she  might be able to tell you who to get in touch with.

February 03, 2016 @ 4:31 pm
lucretius's picture

I called the customer relations number and got some low level person who could not offer any more information and said the decision was final and she could not elevate my call or query to anyone else. So I opened up a case here:

I also submitted a complaint to the BBB, although I don't think this will have any effect. And, there were already other similar complaints.

Thanks for the advice -- I may give Ellen Roseman a shot and try to track down key VW email addresses.

February 03, 2016 @ 9:10 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Sounds like you are doing everything you can - that's actually the first I've heard of camvap and it definitely looks like the right place for your complaint. Might as well go at it from as many angles as you can though in case one of them doesn't work out and so that they know you mean business.

February 05, 2016 @ 10:22 am
lucretius's picture

Just an update --

After being contacted by the BBB and the Canadian Motor Vehicle Arbitration Plan, Volkswagen Canada did contact me directly with an offer of a "goodwill gesture". I have accepted the "goodwill gesture' and I am satisfied with the latest action taken by Volkswagen Canada. Thanks!

February 21, 2016 @ 4:05 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Too bad they only offer any goodwill when their backs are against the wall being threatened by poor publicity. Oh well, I'm sure a few people will read your comments here and be turned off from VW. If that sort of thing keeps happening, then their reputation will keep taking a nosedive and their business will suffer.

Really glad you are going to be able to get your vehicle fixed with the costs covered!

February 22, 2016 @ 12:37 pm
Steph's picture


I've read through your comments and I just have a quick question. I'm planning to pick up my new car (2015 Micra) next week and I'm debating whether I should rust proof it with Corrosion Free now or wait a few months to make sure there's no other problems with the car. The Corrosion Free warranty covers new vehicles within the first year of purchase, so if I wait do you think it would make a big difference quality wise? I.e. would it really make a big difference to just rust proof it fresh out of the dealership vs a few months down the road?

Also, I know very little about cars so when I go to get the rust proofing done, is there a good video/diagram or anything specific I should check after it's done to make sure everything was applied properly? I don't know any trustworthy mechanics (in Markham area), so I'll just be going to the closest independent shop to get Corrosion Free applied. Thank you!

March 16, 2016 @ 12:16 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Hi Steph. Waiting for a few months and rust proofing closer to next winter is probably fine. Doing it sooner wouldn't hurt either though. It isn't like you can really return a car anyway.

I don't know of any videos that show people properly applying rust proofing but there could be something out there on YouTube. Just ask them if you can watch them apply it and try to see if they are being thorough. If it takes them 20 minutes, they probably aren't.

March 18, 2016 @ 3:28 pm
Matt's picture

Any good shops that can apply corrosion free in Scarborough other than Canadian tires? I checked the corrosion free dealers on their website and only Canadian tire comes up near scarborough. Thanks

April 07, 2016 @ 11:42 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Not that I know of Matt - you could try calling their customer service but I'm assuming their website is up to date.

April 07, 2016 @ 2:42 pm
30 Year Rust Check Customer
30 Year Rust Check Customer's picture

Just got gouged $650 for pollution control contamination resulting from loose/expanded rubber fittings the dealer attributed to Rust Check which promotes itself as 'oil based'. Didn't get much argument from my long time Rust Check dealer who offered a couple of free sprays. Have never had any rust on the 5 or 6 vehicles I've owned that were treated by Rust Check but it now appears there are some trade offs.

May 11, 2016 @ 8:38 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Well, at least you got reimbursed by your dealer. I'm looking forward to less problems with seals now that I've switched to Corrosion Free.

May 13, 2016 @ 2:33 pm
Patrick's picture

At our shop Rust Check shop here in Scarborough at 2305 Markham Road, we use a spray on silicone on the seams where our product creeps out the most, especially the door rubbers, hood and trunk, this silicone product we use now protects the rubbers from absorbing the Rust Check.

Manufactured rubber these days seems a lot more cheaper, so it tends to absorb oils easily when heavily saturated. But we have a product now to prevent this.


April 18, 2017 @ 3:45 pm
Dennis Olsen
Dennis Olsen's picture

Whatever you try don't use ziebart. The under coating and bed liner are complete garbage.

May 16, 2016 @ 2:35 pm
Rajesh's picture

I recently bought 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan Mini Van. Car is run 104K and it is vlean car except it has lots of rust in bottom parts despite previous owner took Rust proofing package from Dealer when he purchased this car in 2010. I am thinking of keeping this car as long as it runs, My question , Is it worth going for Rust proofing when you inherit car, which already has rust? Does it make sense to rust proof used car. I am also interested in knowing reliable Corrosion free dealer in Markham.


May 16, 2016 @ 5:34 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Yes, absolutely it is still worth rust proofing. Spray on liquid rust proofing products like those discussed here coat the metal and prevent air and moisture from reaching it which will cause the metal to rust further. It essentially stops the chemical process of rusting from being able to happen.

Nothing is better than rust proofing before the rust can start, but if you aren't planning to replace all the rusted parts and just want them to last longer, absolutely do it. Even if you are going to replace some of the rusted parts, you still want to prevent those parts that you don't replace and don't look like problems now from becoming problems.

May 16, 2016 @ 9:08 pm
Aubrey's picture

I bought a VW & was told rust-proofing could void the warranty (if it reacts or interferes with VW's anti-corrosion protection). However, I live in a part of the country where rust (surface or otherwise) is inevitable, so I think I'll "oil" every 12-18 months, regardless.

Known is known to be good, but can negatively affect rubber seals & Krown wants to drill holes (not so good re VW warranty); Corrosion Free sounds great, but is only available at the Canadian Tire locally; I don't know how to tell if Canadian Tire will do a thorough job or not. (They tell me their guy has done it for 10 years, but I suspect their "guy" has a young helper who has done it for less than that... usually the way, isn't it?) CanTire also tells me they don't drill holes but that they can still provide full warranty protection from Corrosion Free. Yet, in other centres where there is an independent CorrosionFree contractor, I'm told if they can't access every part without drilling holes, then the Corr.Free warranty will not cover those areas. Not sure whether CanTire can be trusted about the warranty being 100%. What do you think?

Also curious about Patrick's comment re "no german cars". Is there a specific problem regarding the application process for Corrosion Free to german-made cars? Or is this based on some other issue; perhaps VW's history during the war? (If so, American companies, specifically GM & Ford, and other European manufacturers were all tainted.)

June 04, 2016 @ 5:27 pm
Cesar's picture

I am considering buying a used 2009 Grand Caravan that has been Krown-treated every year, and was wondering if it would be better to continue with Krown or switch over to Corrosion Free.

July 12, 2016 @ 2:29 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I'd say you'd be fine either way. I just switched from Rust Check to Corrosion Free on my vehicles and so far so good. Time will tell how they hold up in the long run.

July 13, 2016 @ 11:16 am
Steve's picture

Thanks for bringing this DND study to our attention. I tried the link to the redflagdeals summary or the results but it did not work for me.

August 10, 2016 @ 10:15 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

The spam filter I use is super sensitive towards links. If you are persistent and only use 1 link, you can usually get it through - but even then sometimes it won't allow it. Sorry about that, but there is really no other way to keep spam comments off the site than use a strict spam filter.

August 10, 2016 @ 11:17 pm
Steve's picture

Stephen, I appreciate you drawing our attention to the DND study and for moderating this discussion. Inspired by an article I recently read to reduce the money we spend on cars, I privately purchased a well maintained used 2012 RAV4 with only 75000KM on it. I got it for half the original purchase price. My goal is to keep this vehicle for another four years and then sell it for half of what I paid for it. That would mean that the first owner paid 50% of the vehicle's value for the first four years of use. I am hoping I will pay only 25% of the vehicle's value for the next four years, and then the final owner will pay the final 25% for the final four years.

Needless to say, I need to look after this car if my money saving plan is to work. Rust proofing is a major part of this. I never liked the dripping from Krown, the hole drilling or the mess/dirt on the outside of the car from the oil creeping onto the lower exterior of the doors. Thanks to all of the comments on this blog I find a local applicator and today had my RAV4 sprayed with Corrosion Free Formula 3000. He drilled no holes, took over an hour to do the application, charged $130, and claimed to make every effort to get into hard to reach areas. The job looks very clean and there is no dripping in my driveway. The substance is clear and a little thicker than the oil sprays.

August 11, 2016 @ 11:29 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

That sounds exactly like my experience - much cleaner than Rust Check. I've been happy so far!

August 13, 2016 @ 3:23 pm
Ross's picture

Stephen, thank you for article. what about Oil Gard? They are pretty big too and have dealers across Canada. Any information how their protection performs ?

August 23, 2016 @ 11:29 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

First I've heard of them Ross, there are none of those in my area that I know of. If you find any performance info about them please let us know.

September 05, 2016 @ 12:48 pm
George's picture

I am in Atlantic Canada and get my vehicles rust treated by a one-man shop who only does rust proofing and is very popular. I haven't asked what the product is, but it is drip less and non-hardening. I have had one problem which my Body Shop tells me is caused by rustproofing (all). My Civic has very close tolerances on the door trim. According to the Body Shop, the rustproofing (maybe) caused it to soften and warp a bit so the trim caught and ultimately bent the front fender. This was easily bent back to shape, but I filed off a bit of the mouldings to prevent recurrence. The shop also tells me they have tried heating and various glues with little success and recommended buying new trim. I used marine bedding cement with some success so far.

I use the same rustproofing on my sail boat cradle where it gets heavy spray from salt water. It has stayed pretty much rust free since treatment. I previously had to wire brush it and rust paint it every year. I also have to watch for the coating which remains grease-like.

August 27, 2016 @ 8:48 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

What's the name of the place you go George if you don't mind sharing?

September 05, 2016 @ 12:49 pm
Shawn Chong
Shawn Chong's picture

Thanks for this informative post! I didn't even know about Corrossion Free! Fortunately, a Toyota dealership near me offers it!

September 06, 2016 @ 12:00 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

You're welcome - having a dealership do it would be great I think.

September 08, 2016 @ 9:04 pm
David Edwards
David Edwards 's picture

I just recently purchased a Toyota Venza Limited and I am looking to get it rustproofed but I have questions. My 2000 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab, purchased August 1999 (17 years ago), was Krown rustproofed from new, every year and it has no rust on it. The only issues that I have had are deterioration of wire insulation at the stripped end due to the oil creeping in under the insulation causing it to get dried out and brittle, plugging up the cooling rad of the air conditioner once and the creeping of the stuff around the doors and tailgate that a good wash will take care. As it has been mentioned earlier on in this thread, the application is only as good as the person applying it. In my case the original owner of the Krown franchise where I had my Nissan sprayed did a great job. The material dripped for 3 days after being applied. Unfortunately he sold it 10 years later to someone else who hired younger people that just wanted a pay check but didn't care how the job was done. So doing some research I came upon this site, thanks for this Stephen. Corrosion Free is new to me but sounds promising. I would like to know the Toyota dealer that Shawn Chong uses as they would know my Venza inside out so they should do a good job. The other question I have is has anyone run into issues with the spray doing damage to the wiring, speakers, electrical components within the door cavities whether it be Krown or Corrosion Free?

September 11, 2016 @ 5:22 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I'm surprised to hear that it does damage to electrical components and wires. I know my father always sprayed electronic connections with WD40 or rust check to help preserve those components. Unfortunately I can't give you any further insight than that because I have no experience with Krown specifically.

September 12, 2016 @ 11:48 am
Denis Loo
Denis Loo's picture

I had a VW GTI for 20 yrs from 1985 to 2005 and was drilled and rust-checked since new. It was a great car. The first 15 years looked pristine but after an accident and bodywork, rust started appearing on the hood, fenders and the hatch. I completely took apart the VW when it was 20 yrs old thinking to do a full restoration as a hobby but discovered many internal structural weldments that were corroded (that was apparently NEVER treated for rust due to inaccessibility). For safety reasons this project was abandoned and the car was junked. In 2005. I bought a new Nissan X-trail and had the dealer 'Waxoyl' 'lifetime' rustproofing done and brought faithfully for annual inspections and touchups. After only 3 years bubbles started around the rear wheel fenders and it was repaired under the rustproofing warranty at the dealer. Only a year later it started happening again and was worse enough that it was repaired again under warranty. 2 years later, it started happening again but this time the dealer proclaimed in their records that I had missed an annual inspection so the warranty was now void. Upon reviewing my receipts and records, I noticed that although I had requested an annual rust inspection be done during a routine maintenance appointment, it was not actually done on the paperwork so I was out of luck. It was not easy to find a body shop even willing to do any rust repairs and none would guarantee their work no matter what the price which varied from a low of $800 to $3000+! I finally brought it to a 'friend-recommended ' body shop (not the cheapest) to repair the corrosion damage and they said to make sure I have the repaired area treated for rust afterwards. Immediately after repairs, I brought it to a garage that applied Corrosion-Free (based on recommendations from the DoD paper) whose process involved no drilling and explained my needs and they agreed and spent extra time to 'flood' the specific area while doing the whole car. A year later and bulges started appearing under the paint in the repaired areas around the wheel well. This time I found a classic car restorer body guy (semi-retired) who works on cars at home to do a proper rust repair. He cut out the rusted areas, made up new panels and seam welded them in. He reported that welding was very time consuming due to the very thin metal used in this area for this model of car by the manufacturer and it was thus no surprise that many cars you see on the road today show signs of rust in this area. He also reported the quality of the many prior repairs were very poor and patches were not welded correctly nor was the existing rusted areas fully removed before the patches were applied. Any welding was minimal and left open seams and gaps. He mentioned to me that there were also enclosed areas in the quarter-panels that had no corrosion treatment that accelerated the corrosion process due to the absorptive factory insulation within and the effects of condensation and accumulation of debris (i.e. salt that could leak in there) and that there was in fact, no way to access it except by drilling for rust-proofing treatment. He cleaned it all up but also strongly recommended I take it for rust-proofing after the bodywork specifically in the vulnerable areas. When I mentioned it to the garage that applied the corrosion-free before (and had asked them to 'flood' the area before) and asked how they make sure that all areas are covered during application of the rustproofing, they said that they only know by 'experience' but have no formal documentation of guidelines for any particular model. They claimed that the 'creepage' properties of the product would enable it to reach all areas without any drilling but were surprised that ‘my body guy’ found areas that lacked the coverage. They then said that they do not drill any holes for 'liability reasons' and recommended that I should request the body guy drill the required holes for them and they would be happy to treat any areas. Given this response and the recommendations of ‘my body guy’, I went to Krown and they drilled holes where needed and treated the whole car per their usual package. What this saga has taught me in my experience is the following: 1) If any repair is done under any warranty, you have little or no say as to how it is done and the differences are often hidden. Any body shop that does insurance work will want to get it done in the cheapest and quickest possible way given their overhead and the constraints of the limited reimbursement of insurance book value rates. 2) Any rust-treatment process that can claim to achieve complete coverage in today's cars through drainage holes and existing access holes without any additional drilling is simply not believable. Better access is available by removing external and internal panels but this is both time-consuming and risky and no rust-proofing I know of does this. In this world of unibody construction and ever increasing collision standard design requirements, there is a high likelihood of inaccessible internal structural sheet metal components that cannot be accessed properly for treatment without external drilling. I actually have experience in designing equipment for military applications (yes, I am an engineer) and not only is it standard to design in drainage holes for condensation but also select and coat materials for compatibility and resistance to corrosion to prevent any galvanic coupling issues arising from dissimilar material couplings. So while I believe the DoD report for their evaluation for their applications, their success is predicated on full accessibility for treatment and a more rigorous material compatibility discipline than cost-effective or evident on vehicles designed and priced for the public. 3) The most stable form of non-precious metal is as an oxide (ie. steel->rust) so any metal will eventually revert to its naturally most stable low-energy state as it is found in nature. As such, it is only a matter of time before any refined metal corrodes no matter what the treatment except by limiting exposure to oxygen and other corrosive materials we can slow down the process. However, no matter how good the part may still look, as long as it is used and serves a structural function, there is also a fatigue life limit for safe operation so there is little point to preserving a car as a daily driver beyond a certain point no matter how well-maintained it may be. Steels do have an 'infinite' fatigue life, if you can somehow limit stresses to below the endurance limit, but with the size of today's potholes and the focus on fuel-efficiency and cost, optimization for weight and manufacturing cost, components designed today strive to have less structural margin than ever before.

September 20, 2016 @ 5:57 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Great comment Denis - thanks. A lesson I have learned in life is no matter how careful you are, there are always ways for problems to still crop up. I think a rule of thumb is to still do the rust proofing, try to get them to do a better job than usual, get them to drill holes if they can, and then just hope for the best.

Worst case scenario you should be significantly better off than if you did nothing.

September 22, 2016 @ 11:35 am
Denis Loo
Denis Loo's picture

Agreed. Do what you can to avoid serious pitfalls and do the best you can to be better off. Learning from others can be a good way of taking advantage of lessons learned (often the hard way) to avoid having to 'reinvent the wheel again'.

An oil-based corrosion treatment can effectively slow down the corrosion process but access is critical. A regular or annual reapplication also serves to flush out contaminants and debris buildup. The products that drip and flow, albeit messier, would still be my preference because they are also less likely to build up and plug up the manufacturer's drainage holes which could promote corrosion due to condensation buildup. Another benefit of an oil-type sprayed car is that fasteners are also less likely to be as seized or be as severely corroded.

September 24, 2016 @ 12:46 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Avoiding seizures is a great side perk for sure!

October 14, 2016 @ 1:07 pm
chrisgblues's picture

I have a 2005 Pontiac Montana.
For the first 8 years I did NOT do any rustproofing. I live in an area where we get a lot of snow and ice in the winter, and the roads are heavily salted.
Needless to say, the rocker panels rusted out completely in the 8th year. Also the rear AC lines rusted.
So I replaced the rockers with sheet metal, and had the ac lines replaced, and I went to Rust Check and got the annual rust check application with undercoating.
It's been 3 years but the rust has NOT gotten any worse. The body seems solid.
I will report back in a year or two but for now I am very satisfied.
The only thing that sucks is that my vehicle smokes like a chimney the day I get the Rust Check application done, and people in the vehicle next to me think my van is about to explode! Because the rustproofing drips on the hot engine from the underside of the hood, and it also burns off the overspray on the exhaust. But it's a small price to pay for protection.

October 03, 2016 @ 4:25 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

My vehicles have held together quite well with Rust Check. Hoping with Corrosion Free they will do even better. I like to keep them for a really long time to lower the yearly cost of ownership.

October 14, 2016 @ 1:08 pm
Patrick's picture

If you are happy with Rust Check why change?

Is it price based?

If you are paying 150 plus tax every year and a half, thats still about 100 a year.

I can do a normal sized car for you, full treatment for 100 plus tax at our shop here at Markham and Finch Rust Check.

Dont fix what aint broke man!

April 18, 2017 @ 3:49 pm
Linda's picture

I just purchased a 2016 Toyota Corolla. I want to get it undercoated and rust proof. There is a great deal of plastic in cars these days. What needs to be coated in a new car? Is it wheel wells, inside doors, frame of the car and underneath the car? Any thing that should be done or not done? When it is done I intend to check afterward and want to make sure it really was done before I drive it off the lot. Would appreciate any feedback.

October 11, 2016 @ 4:48 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

You probably don't need both undercoating and rust proofing. It isn't going to hurt your plastic to have it sprayed with rust proofing - so just make sure they do the entire car well and you should be fine.

October 14, 2016 @ 1:10 pm
Sue's picture

I'm confused (or maybe just tired). This morning I bought, a new Honda Civic and of course the dealer is offering rustproofing with a 10 year guarantee. Their brochure says it's called Honda Plus Vulcanized Undercoating/Sound Shield as well as Honda Plus Amber Rust Inhibitor. Do you know anything about these. I was going to go for it until I read your article. Also the only place that does the Corrosion free near Kanata in Ottawa are at Canadian Tire service centres which sounds like it may not be a good idea. What I'm confused about is Rust check or Krown the better choice or should I go with the dealer.

October 28, 2016 @ 5:41 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I have no experience with dealer undercoating and other forms of rust protection. They all do it differently. However, my reading on the subject has indicated that undercoatings in general can be bad because they can crack and if that happens you get water and salt up inside and it speeds up the rusting process.

An oil based product always repels water and "creeps" into hard to reach places. You still need someone skilled at applying it to make sure you get good coverage - but it will get more places than an undercoat spray can.

In short, I would suggest going with Krown if you don't trust the Corrosion Free dealer in your area. Krown has been shown to perform better than Rust Check. I had good experience with Rust Check, so your experience should be even better with Krown.

If you do go with the dealer coverage, I would read that contract with a fine tooth comb to make sure you actually can get a proper repair if it doesn't work and they can't just easily wiggle out of it.

November 01, 2016 @ 10:10 am
Kevin Y
Kevin Y's picture

Hey Stephen,

Great write up! I've been looking around and have not found a place other than Canadian tire to apply the corrosion free rustproofing. Just seeing if you or anybody else has found a place in Ottawa or just outside to apply this? I was going to go to krown, but i did not know how badly and how long it drips for, so after reading this write up, i've decided I need to get corrosion free!



November 23, 2016 @ 12:01 pm
Vince's picture

I picked up a 4 litre jug of Corrosion Free at TSC farm supply store in Alliston for less than $60 before tax. I have a cheap air oil spray handle, I've used for oil or rust sprays on farm machinery. TSC also seems to also handle the 4 litre cans of Fluid Film which go on sale way too seldom for my liking. If I could find reasonably priced 4 litre jugs of Rust Check or Krown I personally wouldn't care which product I used. Canadian Tire handles an 850 ml liquid Rust Check product I've bought before, and sell a spray gun that fits the top of that can.
There is not much rust on my 2007 Tundra I picked up used recently but for some reason the back bumper and Reese hitch have a lot of rust I want to get ahead of, so I don't run into the frame rust recall problems the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra's and Tacoma's had, or other Toyota recalls on the underside spare tire carrier.

Thanks for every bodies input.

November 24, 2016 @ 2:53 pm
Bob Mettler
Bob Mettler's picture


Just bought a 2015 Impreza Limited, very low mileage (2488 km), has gone through one winter [2014-15], was in storage for last year. I used Krown for my last car - 2005 Mazda3, and it stayed quite clean. Looking to go for either Corrosion Free, or Krown again. Concerned that the one winter without treatment -car was on the road in Sept 2014 - will mean it's susceptible to rust no matter what I do. Any thoughts??

November 26, 2016 @ 11:05 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Rusting is a very slow process and it is never too late to slow it down. Starting 1-2 years after new is still much better than doing nothing.

The 2005 Mazda's a rust buckets (I had one) and I'm glad to hear you had the same experience I did. Using rust proofing went a long way to slow down the rusting process that all of those Mazdas go through due to poor design.

November 27, 2016 @ 3:40 pm
Iris's picture

Just came across this site when I googled for car undercoating recommendations. Thank you for the details - I have to find now a shop which offers the Corrosion Free product. But the reason I send this comment is the introduction on this site when mentioning the first car - a Sunfire: "....... I took really good care of my new baby and Rust Checked her every year religiously."
I had to give up my Sunfire last summer because of rust. She was such a great car and it warmed my heart to read your lines!

November 29, 2016 @ 7:53 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Loved that shiny blue car with the cool looking wheels (for the time).

November 30, 2016 @ 2:42 pm
Kay's picture

Hey Stephen,

I was looking for recommendations on protecting one's vehicle from winter salt rust and corrosion when I stumbled upon the Krown product. Further research brought me to this website. I recently bought a 2012 Nissan Maxima. I plan to use it for a while and I'm not sure if the former owner did any rust-proofing on the car. I live in Northern BC and the temperature is beginning to drop to the -10 to -20 Celsius Would it be a good idea to get my vehicle rust-proof now or just wait till it's spring before doing that? I've read it's more effective during the spring. Would I be better off washing my car regularly and wait till spring to do the Krown rust proof?



December 05, 2016 @ 3:39 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I have not read that it is more effective in the spring and personally prefer to do it in the fall just before winter so I will have more of the product on the car when it is most exposed to salt and snow.

I can't say for sure which option is best, but if I were you I'd put it on ASAP.

December 08, 2016 @ 9:41 pm
Phil's picture

I happened upon this forum while searching information on Lubricare rustproofing. Having used it in the past I liked how thick the application was ( they heat up the product to spray it on the vehicle). Lubricare claims their product does creep and from past experience I believe this to be the case.
I work at a GM assembly plant and many of my co-workers keep their vehicles for years and have them rust protected, so we have many conversations regarding which product works best. I think most believe Krown is the best, Rust Check as good or a close second. I have used both, as well as Waxoyl type of products. But, everyone agrees a product is only as good as the person spraying it on. This forum was the first time I have heard of the Corrosion Free product, and the DND study has caught my attention. Ironically 7 days ago I bought a used Buick in the GTA very close to where Patrick's shop is located. I only wish every rustproofing shop had as dedicated personnel working in the pit!
My wife has a Jeep Wrangler she has Krowned since new and I agree with the comment of how they spray the chassis and even the brakes. The local Krown shop does a great job getting in everywhere, but I think the product is too thin and washes off over the winter. Last spring I found myself under the jeep with a spray bomb of Rustcheck touching up the dry areas. This brings me back to why I was checking out Lubricare... It is thicker which makes it harder to wash off over the winter months but still creeps into the seems, especially on warm days when the sun gets the vehicle nice and hot.
As I write this I am undecided which way to go. Like most on this forum I distrust Canadian Tire service and this seems to be who uses the Corrosion Free product. We Canadians spend a lot of money on vehicles over a lifetime only to see them rot out long before the engine and powertrian wear out. I admit car bodies last much longer than back in the seventies when I started driving, but the rest of the vehicle lasts much longer as well thanks to Japanese competition.

January 14, 2017 @ 1:52 pm
Jeff's picture

I've been using corrosion Free for years, it's very effective and last for approx 16-20 months and then will need touch ups . I have had no rust or corrosion form on my car that i have owned for nearly 9 years .
I now buy directly from corrosion free and apply myself i guess i'm a little fussy and trust my own work rather than garages who claim to be experts.
On a side note that's very interesting i have not had any electrical issues on my car since using corrosion free , also no squeaking suspension parts. I highly recommend using corrosion free no mess clean product and it works.

January 16, 2017 @ 10:48 am
Leanhoser's picture


I wouldn't dismiss the electronic corrosion protection systems just yet. While in Nova Scotia a colleague had a 10 year old car that he never protected by undercoating of any sort, yet his car was absolutely pristine. I thought it was a brand new car. He bought it used and showed me the box that protected his vehicle installed on the chasis near the battery. i found out that it was an earlier version of a product made by "Final Coat" a Canadian Firm near Toronto. It uses some sort of RF protection. I've looked into getting one but the cost is equivalent to 5 years of annual Krown rust coatings and I don't intend to keep my car for that long. Rest assured that my next new car will. It was only available through selected dealers and a dealer installation for a new vehicle is about $1000 while just the unit is about have that much. I suspect that it is quite important to have it installed correctly.

January 24, 2017 @ 1:31 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

More evidence on this would be great - I wonder if the car magazines have covered it.

January 25, 2017 @ 2:49 pm
Spero Betas
Spero Betas's picture

Hello and thank you for this post. I have used rust check in Kingston Ontario for almost 20 years. I bought my 2005 Silverado new and went to get it rustproofed right away. Rust check product seems to work OK. NO rust on my truck. BUT this year many problems with this Kingston facility. I had to bring back ALL of my vehicles for a respray. Poor workmanship and lack of training. I even did a Google review on rust check Kingston. It is honest and fair. Will try Krown in the spring. They have a new facility that was just built. I am hoping to get another 10 year's out of this truck that has 160 thousand KMs. Please avoid rust check in Kingston Ontario. All the best

February 19, 2017 @ 12:13 pm
Cheryl's picture

Hello and thank you for such a great post
I just purchased a new 2017 Dodge Ram and I am curious as to when I should have it rust proofed. I do live in Ontario, so lots of salt on the roads during the winter months. This is my first time buying brand new and I want to protect this vehicle for as long as possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks for your time :)

March 07, 2017 @ 12:35 am
George's picture

I just recently moved to Kingston. I have always rust proofed my F-150 and tried many products from Canadian Tire, Krown and Rust Check over the years. I am surprised to see a bad review of the Rust Check in Kingston since I was just there this spring. I found it to be a great experience. I went because of reviews on their Facebook page and was not disappointed.
I was able to watch the entire treatment from the waiting room. We discussed the various packages before hand and they even had videos on showing how the process was done.
I go over my vehicles after to make sure I am happy, not a missed spot.
Now months later, I can see the product creeping up from the bottom of the door, so I know it's there even though I can't see it.
After seeing how many more areas were covered by Rust Check versus the other guys, I won't be going to anyone else.

April 18, 2017 @ 4:33 pm
Ruth's picture

I have ben using Krown Rust Proofing annually on my 1992 Nissan Maxima for the past 14 years (I know, I'm a late starter) and t am thoroughly happy with them. Because of this, my car is in better shape rust-wise than many cars that I see on the road which are newer. When I took my car in to the mechanic for Winterizing last Fall he told me to never have another application put on as it had built up too much and could cause problems.. Can this happen? I have never heard of that. Thoughts?

April 25, 2017 @ 5:18 pm
Patrick's picture

Hello Ruth,
What you could be dealing with is a build up of a thicker chemical, I am not sure without the full details of why your mechanic would suggest this, but he may be referring to a buildup of chemical and dirt accumulation on the bottom of your vehicle?

There can also be an issue if the product is too thick and it can clog panels and drain holes in your car.

If you want to solve that I would suggest at least for the bottom of the car give it a good pressure wash so you can see the metal again, and come to my shop here at 2305 Markham Road in Scarborough (Rust Check) , our product is very thin, effective and very penetrating. (of course it drips a bit more than the thicker stuff, but thats what makes it good, gets into all the crevices.)

For a 1992 I would definitely not stop rust proofing it, once you stop the rust will come out like a cancer, especially the older the car gets. But I would give it a very thorough cleaning to get rid of that build up.


April 26, 2017 @ 10:52 am
Rick Morris
Rick Morris's picture


Thanks for a very informative article. Just bought a new truck and, thinking that hopefully this will be the last vehicle I will ever have to buy, I found a local Corrosion Free dealer that is NOT Canadian Tire! Appointment made. Cheers!


May 04, 2017 @ 11:22 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Great news Rick - thanks for sharing!

May 22, 2017 @ 9:14 pm
Scott's picture

Just bought a 2017 mazda 3 GT. Dealer wants $1200 to rust proof. I said hell no. Any recommendations for after market? Weed was thinking krown now to get in all nooks n crannies , then corrosion free just prior to salt season. Thoughts?

May 09, 2017 @ 12:21 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

If you want to be extra cautious I guess you could go that way. I think Corrosion Free does a good job of covering the vehicle.

May 22, 2017 @ 9:15 pm
Adrianne's picture

I have a 2008 Highlander that has never been treated for rust. The people who did an emissions test recently tried to sell me rust proofing after pointing out how much rust there was under the car, especially toward the back. I wanted to do some research before deciding, and thank you for all the info on your web site. Is there any point to starting rust proofing when there is already a lot of rust?

May 20, 2017 @ 6:56 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

It will definitely slow down the spread of the rust, but that doesn't mean you won't have to still do some body work to keep it serviceable.

May 22, 2017 @ 9:16 pm
Me's picture

Had 3 new cars and drove them all to approximately 300,000/km. Never used rust preventatives and never had a rust issue.
They were washed, in a non-automated car wash, in the winter about 1-2 times a month.

June 05, 2017 @ 11:45 am
Larry's picture

Hi Stephen and thanks for the info
Just purchased a new ATS Cadillac and am looking to rust proof Leaning towards Corrossion Free
does any of your readers have info / reiews onl Tru-Tech automotive in Shelburne ,,,they are listed as the dealer here
thank you

July 01, 2017 @ 8:33 pm
ERIC's picture

Great Forum

The feed back is terrific. I have a 1981 Toyota that I am currently doing a repaint on the body. When finished I plan to do the rust proofing on the frame which is still is surprisingly good shape. Every year I flush out the frame with a pressure washer mainly to get the accumulation of sand and gravel out. This crap can really ruin a frame in short order especially when it absorbs the road salt from winter driving.

I have used Fluid Film in the past and it does seem to provide some protection to parts that don't have a lot of exposure to the elements, such as door hinges, hood latches and hinges etc. However Fluid Film contains wax and I have found that wax can break down fairly quickly in the presence of water.

In the past I found a product called Duralube which was an engine oil additive sold in a promotion along with a spray bottle of the same. The manufacturer's claim was that it had a long chain molecular structure that made it very slippery and gave it a penetrating film like quality. I presume the oil in the spray bottle was the same as the engine additive, and used it on the hinges and latches. With only one application the squeaks would be gone for months, by far out performing any other product I have used since, including Fluid Film. I intend to use this product on the frame of my truck (to begin with) to see how it controls the rust. I will also do more research to see if there are any bad affects on rubber, plastic, and wiring.

July 28, 2017 @ 5:56 am
Adam's picture

Just wanted to share my experience with the Corrosion Free product.. I chose Corrosion Free because of all the good write ups, (DOD findings as well), after doing a lot of research between the different products. I had it applied to my Pontiac Grand Prix and the product ended up warping my rubber seals at the bottom of all 4 doors where the product drained out of the door's drain holes and made contact with the rubber, (only took a couple of months for this to happen).

I went back to Canadian Tire who applied the Corrosion Free rust proofing and they replaced all the bottom rubber door seals for me at their cost, (one time only though). That being said, I was very careful to make sure the new rubber door seals were kept very clean going forward, but the new rubber door seals also warped over time and swelled where they made contact with each door's drain hole and came in contact with the Corrosion Free product.

I initially loved the product because it doesn't drip and seems to not wash off as quickly on the undercarriage as rust check, but I need to find a product for my new car that won't damage the plastic or rubber.

Any suggestions ?


July 29, 2017 @ 7:59 am
Moe's picture

I have 2017 Ram 1500
What is the manafucture Corrosion Coverage?
Ziebart or Corrosion Free?

September 04, 2017 @ 11:53 pm
BruceT's picture

Noticed several "rust bucket" Mazda comments.

Not my experience at all & i've been driving Mazdas (MPVs & Mazda5) for almost 30 years and have never had any rust issues.

Of course, i've rust proofed every year. Rust Check for the first 10 years or so .. then wasn't happy with a new Rust Check franchisee & switched to Krown. No complaints with either product.

October 12, 2017 @ 1:41 am
David L
David L's picture

Reading through these post makes me glad I went with Rustcure on my then new 2016 Accord.
I found an excellent shop to do it but unfortunately they closed down.
Like others have posted I refuse to go to Cdn Tire to do this due to their reputation.

In the Mississauga area, I found a Rustcure dealer by Mclaughlin & Eglinton.

November 14, 2017 @ 7:45 pm
Dimas's picture

CT has gotten a bad rep for repairs which stemmed from the commission the mechanics would get for selling parts (so you could go in to get a battery replaced and coincidentally the entire electrical system was just about to fail). That being said, I've taken 3 vehicles to Trinity Commons location and they have appear to have done a good job with the corrosion free application and I took another vehicle to the Georgetown and no complaints there either. Apparently there are only a couple of their guys trained to do the rust-proofing and nobody else is allowed to touch it. I don't have older cars so I can't comment on how long it keeps rust away, but the 2 mechanics I use for service have said good things about how the rust corrosion free was applied.

February 19, 2018 @ 2:20 pm
Robert's picture

Great information Steve! Your site is a real asset. I completely agree with you about buying new cars and maintaining them well. I've done that for decades. As cars become more dependent on rapidly-evolving electronics and more regulated by government however, I wonder how long it will still make sense to hang on to yesterday's obsolete and increasingly disposable technology?

I also agree with you about Canadian Tire. I think that many of their products are good value but the automotive service: not so much. Just one illustration: I recall the time my wife took her old beater car for a free oil change as part of a promotion. It included a much-touted multi-point inspection which came back showing that everything worked, including the horn, which hadn't actually made a sound for a year or more. I thought that was interesting so I tried it. Still silent!

Back in the early days Krown Rust president Freeman Young helped me win a corrosion claim against General Motors so that's one reason I've been a loyal Krown customer for decades. We currently have three vehicles in their program. I think their product works well but I am seriously looking at Corrosion Free for our next vehicle.

We live in a rural area so I don't mind the Krown drip and in the absence of evidence either way I do wonder if that is just because of low viscosity which should logically translate to better migration into tiny areas. Seals such as the one on my hood have swollen and failed and I've replaced windshield washer lines twice. Still, in our part of the world, where road salt is used liberally, it seems like a small price to pay to prevent rust. I always spray the rubber around the doors with silicone before visiting Krown so I think that helps minimize some swelling.

Historically Krown promoted the idea that they spray the top of the gas tank, which they say in their promotions, competitors ignore. Recently I noticed that their claims include a disclaimer that they don't guarantee gas tanks. Anyway score one for Corrosion Free which does provide a warranty on tanks. I only noticed the Krown disclaimer online after the tank on my Mazda Tribute leaked on the top. Gas which I paid $1.29 / litre for was escaping and I considered the vapour dangerous but nevertheless I was instructed to wait for the area rep who would be visiting the dealer the following week.

I subsequently learned that Krown actually avoids spraying the tanks on some vehicles like mine because of concerns about damage to a sensor.

In an effort to get some compensation for my tank, I had to make dozens of phone calls and dance through a number of hoops over roughly two months. Eventually Krown denied me any payment. Freeman Young never returned my phone call. One Krown insider confided to me: "they've just gotten too big and forgotten about their customers." Fortunately our local dealer is a man with some common sense and an interest in keeping his customers. He eventually offered me some free sprays as partial compensation.

April 17, 2018 @ 4:13 pm
Michael T
Michael T's picture

Rust Check Sure Auto & Glass
Location at 1180 Stonechurch Rd. East Hamilton (Stoney Creek, Ontario)
With respect to my 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad long box, in absolute mint condition imported from Texas in 2008, absolutely no rust. I kept it stored indoors until I moved to Stoney Creek, Ontario August 2014 have and never driven winters to-date. Put on 21,000 miles in 11 years just towing my RV to Sunbelt and back. I did have it fully undercoated in Fall of 2008 with oil under spray and truck had remained pristine until after I took it into your shop

Areas Missed: All of rear underneath bumper (metal), underneath spare tire (you should have asked me
to lower spare at the time if you had the wherewithal to ask

Front end places: under/front of radiator (not near cooling fins), various location of upper/lower control arms both sides and surrounding areas. There is a full splash guard protecting the front discs from any overspray so that is not an excuse. Several areas under engine including bolt pans. These had not rusted prior to your application, but because I knew it would have to be stored outside I decided to get your rust protection
I only noticed this because I had a new set of tires installed today (May 2018) and was shocked as to the condition of areas you missed spraying, ( I am not in the habit of crawling under my truck, I hope that is not a requirement of your customers)

I did get a complimentary RustCheck can from you guys which I just emptied on the spots/areas you missed!

I also had my Pontiac G6 done there, never again

I am so pissed off at you guys you cannot imagine. Whatever is in this letter is going on-line on as many forums I can find to warn other unsuspecting customers as to totally incompetent job you did, less my personal ID info.

May 08, 2018 @ 7:47 pm
martin's picture

Here in Qc , Metropolitan Rust Proofing is the most well know . Corrosion Free seem to be a C.T. dealer only offering here . There no independant dealer of Corrosion Free product here Qc . Someone know something about Metropolitan Rust Proofing reputaion ?

September 10, 2018 @ 8:15 pm

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