Which Rust Proofing Service Is Best?

whichrustproofingserviceisbest.jpgIf you visit the southern USA, you will see all kinds of late model vehicles on the streets that look like they were just driven off the lot. Unless you garage your vehicle in the winter and only drive it during the summer months, you won’t see that here - snow, salt, and rust make sure of that!

Using good rust protection can prevent thousands of dollars in costly repairs and stop the metal body from wearing out long before the engine and other parts are ready to call it quits.

Related: How To Make Your New Car Last Forever

That’s not just my own anecdotal evidence talking either, of which I have plenty. The Canadian Army has actually commissioned several studies on the benefits of rust proofing their vehicles and equipment. They’ve concluded that rust proofing definitely inhibits rust but the real kicker is that not all rust protection products are created equal, far from it.

My Personal Experience With Rust

My first experience with rust was when I still a young lad and I was standing next to my grandmother’s new-looking first generation Ford Escort hatchback that was more than a decade old. My father carefully explained to me that the reason the car was in such good shape was because it had been Rust Checked every year since it was new. He pointed out all the Rust Check stickers lined up side by side on the back hatch window that proved it.

That lesson stuck with me and I’ve used Rust Check on my vehicles ever since I was a teenager in an uncharacteristic example of brand loyalty on my part.

My First Car (Used)

My very first car was a used 1996 Pontiac Sunfire GT that was a gorgeous metallic blue. Even though it was just a Sunfire, I really loved that car! The lines were pretty, the stock wheels were sharp, and the interiour glowed a very cool looking red in the dark. I took really good care of my new baby and Rust Checked her every year religiously.

I never had much in the way of problems with rust up until I sold it in 2005. I did have one big rust spot form around the opening to the gas tank because I was a bit sloppy when gassing up and let little bits of gas spill on to the nearby paint. Over time the gas ate away at the paint and allowed it to rust. That kind of thing can’t be prevented with Rust Check because it’s the paint’s job to protect all painted surfaces. I shouldn’t have been so careless.

I had that one rust spot fixed and the car still looked practically new when I sold it at almost 10 years old.

My Second Car (New)

Having just scored my dream job at a local software company working for peanuts, I made the classic mistake of feeling like I “deserved” my first brand new car to celebrate. Looking back, that probably wasn’t the smartest thing to do at the time but I graduated without debt and had some savings, so there you have it!

My choice? A brand new 2005 Mazda 3 GS in Carbon Gray Mica with a manual transmission. That car drove like a dream and is the easiest shifting manual I’ve had the pleasure of driving. Zoom zoom!

Rust Check? You betcha!

Rust problems? Actually yes…

The year was 2010, my 3 year bumper to bumper warranty had expired but I happened to notice the car also had a 5 year corrosion warranty. Just before my 5 years was up, I spotted what looked like a barely noticeable paint chip along the wheel well and that’s just what I thought it was, a paint chip. Paint chips obviously aren’t covered by the warranty, but I took it to the dealer anyway knowing my warranty would expire soon.

Related: 11 Tips For Getting The Best New Car Price

To my great surprise, they offered to get it professionally repaired free of charge lickity split, which I later found out was because the rust was due to a known manufacturer’s defect. The wheel well was actually completely rusted out but it was all hidden underneath the paint. That may not seem like a win for Rust Check, but now that I was aware of the problem I saw many other 2005 Mazda 3s that had massive rust spots in several places including much bigger problems with the wheel wells, so mine was clearly rusting significantly slower even given the defect.

When I finally sold the Mazda 3 in 2013, the buyers had their mechanic inspect it and he said it was one of the best looking 2005 vehicles he’d ever seen. I think that is proof enough that the car held up comparatively well over time.

What Rust Protection Is Best?

These are the typical choices you have for brand name rust proofing:

There have been several tests run by the Canadian Army on which rust proofing product provides the best protection. You can read the 2006 report here and this post at RedFlagDeals summarizes the results nicely.

The Best Protection

The clear winner in the army tests is Corrosion Free! They found that Corrosion Free was more than 90% effective at inhibiting rust even in the harshest climates. The next closest product was only 70% effective and to my great horror Rust Check was rated at under 40% effective.

That’s what I get for being brand loyal all these years without doing my research! Rust Check definitely works, but I could have been doing so much better all along had I known.

The Best Warranty

The warranty by Rust Check and Krown only covers rust originating from the inside of metal panels and excludes floorboards and sometimes roof panels. They also require an actual hole in the vehicle before they will honour the warranty. Corrosion Free is the only one to cover all body panels and have no restrictions on where the rust originates from. They also don’t necessarily require a full hole before getting it fixed for you. You can read their full warranty sheet here.

Application Interval

Rust Check and Krown require reapplication every 12 months to keep your warranty valid, whereas it is 18 months with Corrosion Free. Less appointments and less hassle, sounds good to me.

Related: Cheapest Products By Month

Cost Comparison

It typically costs between $100 and $150 per year to get an oil based rust prevention product applied, which is expensive, but if keeps your vehicle on the road for 5 to 10 years longer, it’s definitely worth it.

Krown and Rust Check have similar pricing that starts at $120 for the smallest vehicles and moves up to a high of $150 with Rust Check and $140 for Krown. Krown is, however, more generous in their vehicle size pricing as well ultimately making Krown the cheaper option.

Corrosion Free doesn’t publish their prices on their website so I called my local dealer to inquire. The price for most vehicles is $150 and it’s $20 more for larger vehicles and SUVs. That is for the Complete Protection Package, which is definitely the one you want and the most comparable to Krown and Rust Check’s service. On an annualized basis, it’s actually cheaper than the other guys too costing $100 every 12 months averaged out.

Related: How Much Should Car Repairs Cost?

Does It Damage My Vehicle?

It is possible for these oil based solutions to slightly damage the rubber seals on your vehicle, but other than that they are completely safe. Krown’s product is known to cause the most damage to seals so they will usually apply a protective coating to prevent any damage. If one of your seals does become damaged, they will typically replace it free of charge if you bring it their attention.

On my Sunfire and my Mazda 3, my hood seals did become extremely floppy from the Rust Check. Those seals are pretty much non-essential so I never thought much of it. I only found out I could have requested they be replaced while doing research for this article. Again, Corrosion Free scores points for the least damage to seals. I read multiple reports of people using it without any noticeable damage.

The only slightly annoying thing you will notice, is the oily residue that is left behind by the rust treatment. It is particularly noticeable in the engine compartment which tends to eventually look quite black and dirty as grime clings to the oily substance over time.

Do They Drill Holes In My Car?

When I first learned that they sometimes drill holes in cars to gain access to the inner panels for a better application, I was quite concerned. However, after having it done myself and having read about it extensively in forums online, I no longer believe it to be a concern.

If necessary, they drill very small holes in very inconspicuous locations that nobody will ever see. Once the application is complete, they plug the holes with small rubber stoppers to prevent the oil from leaking out and water from getting in. Nothing to worry about.

A Warning About Canadian Tire

Unfortunately, the most common dealer for Corrosion Free is Canadian Tire and many areas have no other dealers to choose from. After reading multiple horror stories about terrible car service at Canadian Tire over the years, I am loathe to ever take my car there for service. If you can find a Corrosion Free dealer in your area that isn’t Canadian Tire, then that would be my recommendation, otherwise you might want to consider Krown as a good-enough second bet.

I’m honestly still on the fence about what I am going to do for rust protection in future years. It seems obvious that I should ditch Rust Check and I would love to move to Corrosion Free, but rust protection is only as good as the person applying it. Taking my cars to Canadian Tire just gives me the quivers. Although, I’m thinking I might just cave, close my eyes, and hope for the best.

What To Avoid

There are other types of rust protection on the market other than oil based products. Many dealers will offer a one-time undercoating for a fee of $500 or more. There are also some electricity based products that keep a live current going through the metal in your car that is supposed to prevent rust.

Everything I’ve read indicates that these types of rust protection are inferiour and should be avoided. Undercoatings in particular can actually cause rust if they crack or are applied incorrectly allowing water and salt to get trapped between the coating and the metal causing it to rust faster.

What Type Of Rust Proofing Do You Use?

Many Canadians use some form of rust protection on their vehicles. I’d be interested to know when you’ve used in the past and how effective you found it to be.

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gcai's picture

Have never used any rust proofing and never had significant rust problems.

I keep my cars a long time - last two were 13 (Toyota) and 15 (Subaru) years old when they left my ownership.

I think the key is to keep the vehicle clean and that does mean washing it (by hand !) even in the middle of winter and using LOTS of water to rinse off the salt - have never used car washes as they recycle water i.e. brine after the first few cars.

The annual rustproofing check charge is one I'll forgo.

January 06, 2015 @ 7:46 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

That's an interesting strategy gcai. It's definitely important to wash your vehicles regularly, especially in the winter. I can be a bit lazy when it comes to washing so I definitely benefit from the added protection of rust proofing. If a person is as dedicated as you are, then I guess you could save some money on rust proofing and still do OK on the rust front but I don't think I'd want to chance it myself.

I also had no idea that they recycled water at car washes. I will have to check with my local car wash to see if that is the case for them because having my vehicle sprayed with salt water doesn't sound like a very good idea!

After reading a bit online it looks like they filter the water quite well and then use 100% clean water during the final rinse. It'd be interesting to know how much salt is present in the recycled water for sure!

January 07, 2015 @ 10:46 am
Werner's picture

Yes they recycle the water at all car washes.
The water is supposed to be desalinated 100% and then used for washing. I definitely don't think they use such a system
As you said the quality of applying rustproofing depends on the person who does it. Absolutely true.
Same with the car washes. If the owner is greedy the filters would the last concern and probably purchased from "Dollar Store"

January 17, 2016 @ 2:39 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

It's hard to know who you can trust for sure. There are so many wrongs that can be easily hidden.

January 20, 2016 @ 4:49 pm
Ern Bieman
Ern Bieman's picture

Hi Stephen,

I know that in the sailing world, a water-maker capable of desalinating a few gallons per hour starts around $4K.

I doubt very much that a car wash could stay in business, and desalinate their water to any significant degree.


March 09, 2016 @ 5:41 pm
Sandy's picture

Thanks. Very informative. I just bought two older vehicles. A 2006 Passat and 2006 Tundra. I have a number of spots on the Volkswagen and was recently informed by another owner of their 12 year rust warranty regardless who owns it. I took it in and they are deciding now whether the spots are covered by the warranty. Heres hoping. My Tundra was imported from the States so I am going to check with a dealer there on their recall on the frame. The previous owner checked in Canada but nothing was listed. I was told to check with a dealer in the States as it wouldn't be listed here.

I have never been a used car buyer but now that I am I want them to last so I will be going to Canadian Tire. Thank you.

January 09, 2015 @ 10:31 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Wow, what a fantastic corrosion warranty by Volkswagen! I had no idea that there were warranties out that that lasted THAT long. Good luck getting it repaired under warranty and I'm glad this helped you out.

January 09, 2015 @ 1:32 pm
mike's picture

I've been using Corrosion Free for years. The only problem I've encountered is with my 2007 F-150 rear wheel well (just above the tire). The paint was bubbling. The Ford dealer washed its hands of it, out of warranty. Corrosion Free to the rescue. The truck had been rustproofed yearly by them; they repaired it free of charge. Apparently, the design of the vehicle prevents the rustproofing from reaching the area in some cases. The estimate for the repair was 1200$.

January 15, 2015 @ 9:45 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Great to hear of a success story with rust proofing and that they will honour their warranty even when it's difficult for them to apply the product in all the right places. You paid for the cost of getting the rust proofing applied basically for the life of the vehicle in that one repair and surely have avoided several other problems.

January 15, 2015 @ 3:17 pm
twotone's picture

I live in Denver. What is this "rust" you speak of?

January 15, 2015 @ 12:58 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Play nice! *goes off to cry in a corner while looking at the mountain of snow outside*

January 15, 2015 @ 3:18 pm
Jinno's picture

Hi Twotone,

I'm from Denver. And vehicles rust there like anywhere else in the mountain states.
Denver uses a chemical treatment to line the roads in winter. This is corrosive as salt.

February 03, 2016 @ 11:31 pm
Mike's picture

I just bought a one owner 2003 Toyota Corolla 4 dr, auto with 50,000 km.....which is why I bought it. Car was never rust proofed and has quite a bit of surface rust on top of both rocker panels.....most on front driver side door....presumably from salt residue from shoes/boots. I will never use the car in the winter and I'd like to get 10 more years out of the car. I'm having the rocker panels repaired at local body shop. I was planning on getting the car rust proofed once rocker panels have been repaired and then not rust proofing in future years since I won't be driving the car in winter/salt conditions. My questions are; would I be trapping any accumulated salt by applying rust proof on a car that's 12 years old? Should I have the underside pressure washed before applying rust proof? In order to get 10 more years out of the car should I continue to rust proof every year? All input welcome.

January 16, 2015 @ 10:11 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Mike, I believe that rust proofing the car after you get the rocker panels fixed will be a good idea for sure. I don't think you have to worry about trapping salt at all but getting it well cleaned before you take it in isn't a bad idea. These rust proofing products are meant to seep through water, grime, and salt to get in direct contact with the metal.

I think you would be better served by continuing to rust check every year especially if you want to get 10 more years out of the car. Cars still rust even in the summer and it has already had a good start on developing rust. Even with rust checking a car that old, you will probably still have the odd rust problem but it will definitely be much less.

January 16, 2015 @ 10:44 am
Paul's picture

You might want to check into the vehicle history a bit before spending a lot of money on the car. I also have a 2003 Corolla that has 112,000 km on the odometer. I am the original owner and so I know the car has 412,000 km on it. The odometers in these cars stop working at 299,999 km and must be replaced with a new one that starts at 0 again. There's a good chance yours actually has 350,000 km on it.

January 30, 2016 @ 10:49 pm
Joe cletese
Joe cletese's picture

Thanks for the great article Stephen Weyman... I own a 2001 Marcedes Benx C240. I purchased this car because it's a Benz and supposed to last for ever! Right? No wing about our Ottawa winters and what salt does to our vehicle, I asked the dealer to have the car under coated and which rust proofing they would recommend. I was told that the car came with the Mercedes under coating and and the way that the car was constructed, I did not need any under coating, therefor, I did not need to undercoat. Well, after a couple of years, I began to see what seemed like stone chips a lover the hood, roof top and on and on. Bringing the car to the dealer, Star Motors, in Ottawa, ON and complain, they refused to deny that the paint was defective and as I was told, 'all Mercedes are painted this way and that's the way it is'. It was getting to a point when while driving, if a bug and I were on a collision course, I would grinch at the thought of "...here goes another paint chip!!!" Meanwhile the car silver grey colour looked spotty brown. After a couple of years in the "boxing ring" with the dealership, Star Motors came up with a proposal that they would, get this, replace the outer removable body panels and repair the non removable panels at a cost of approx. $11K. I refused of course. Back to the boxing ring. It was finally agreed to split the cost three way, half by Mercedes Benz, and the other half by myself and Star Motors. All is well now...so it should be, you think? Less then a year later, rust began to develop above the rear tire wells on both sides where the body shop did the repair. Back to the boxing ring. Star Motors had the repairs done under warranty, great you say. Well not more then three months later paint bubbles started to develop again. Boxing ring. Repaired again. Back to the boxing ring, you get the picture, but this time with the body shop manager where he had the idiocrasy of telling me that it's not guaranteed and that rust can come back after just a few months. Now, I am not a bodyshop expert, but if the work is done right, rust will not re-appear just 2 months later. This repair process went on for four times and to this day I stopped going because they were not capable of doing the proper body rust repairs, the car now has rust holes above the wheel wells.
So thank you Mercedes Benz and Star Motors.

January 16, 2015 @ 11:25 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I'm sorry to hear that Joe, sounds like a terrible ordeal. That is one potential negative of rust proofing a car under warranty is that it could mask rust problems that would otherwise be noticeable before the corrosion warranty expires.That's why you have to pay really close attention to any forming rust right before that happens.

What you went through is inexcusable though. A painted surface shouldn't rust like that after a couple of years.

May 23, 2015 @ 8:45 pm
Mike Franzgrote
Mike Franzgrote's picture

Having purchased a new VW Jetta, last summer, I regrettably did not get into the rust proofing shop before this past winter. I suppose it's not a really big deal but I will definitely look after that this summer. I am of the belief that having the procedure done in the warmer weather allows for improved penetration in the small crevices of the car's body panels. I previously owned a 1997 Dodge that I purchased used from the original owner and drove it for six years, putting almost 300,000 kilometers on the car before it just wasn't realistically worth spending a $1000. on a new timing belt. I had faithfully Rust Checked the car every fall and found one rust spot when I brought it to the wreckers. This spot was almost centre of the leading edge of the roof and no doubt, the result of a stone chip some time ago. I was pretty happy with the Rust Check, except of course for the oil drippings and smell in the week or so following the procedure. I will start searching around for someone who does the corrosion free procedure and try to get that done well before the fall this year. Thank You very much for the advice on this and many other topics. Your site makes for some good reading as well as providing useful and practical advice.

May 21, 2015 @ 12:27 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I doubt that one skipped year will make much of a difference. I do try and do mine the first year but you shouldn't have any problem qualifying for the warranties if you get it done this year.

Thanks for the kind words about the site Mike and I'm glad you found this article useful.

May 23, 2015 @ 8:47 pm
Paul Raines
Paul Raines's picture

I have a 1996 Chey Astro mini-van with 176,000 kms. I bought it in 1997 with 11,000 kms. I used Rust Check for years and the van has remained rust free with yearly applications. I switched to Krown last year after a poor application of Rust Check buy new franchise owners. Working under the van I noticed it was coated like a Ziebart rather than a liquid like Rust Check. I found a spot that was a bubble on the frame. I scrapped the bubble off and it was rusty on that spot.
Now I am confused about which brand to use. I have never heard of Corrosion Free but like most knowledgable car guys
I never take my van to Crappy Tire for any work. They always come back saying this or that needs repair. That is their job to
generate business. I will look for a Corrosion Free dealer in my area. If I don't have one then I have to decide between C T or Krown. I am surprised at the low rating of Rust Check. The previous franchisee did a great job and every spring there was
Rust Check creeping up the outside bottom of my doors. To me that meant that the Rust Check went through the seams of the door.

July 16, 2015 @ 8:59 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Rust check definitely isn't bad, it still works for sure! The Canadian army just discovered that some of the other products work better is all.

I know that sometimes they offer different types of applications. Like at Rust Check they now have a "dripless" formula for Rust Check that is quite different thank their original formulation. Is it possible you got a different formulation at Krown? I've never been there myself so I'm not sure how it works with them.

If you've had good results with Rust Check, I don't think you probably need to change if you could find a decent dealer to apply it. However, if the only Rust Check place has bad applicators and Krown isn't working well for you, then you probably aren't risking much giving CT a shot for rust proofing only if you want to try Corrosion Free. Best of luck with your choice!

July 16, 2015 @ 10:57 pm
Joel Brayman
Joel Brayman's picture

"Proof is in the pudding." If you plan to keep your vehicle 7 or 8 years or longer I cannot recommend Krown highly enough. I used Krown on a 1997 Ford Expedition and had the vehicle for over 12 years and put almost 300,000 km on it. The body looked new when we eventually got rid of it and people could not believe it was old as it was. I also Krowned a 2004 Honda Accord and put 460,000 km on it over 11 years and we just sold it for $1700 in a day despite the very high mileage. The reason - the car looked great with no rust. We just bought a new Accord and I am rushing to our local Krown dealer this morning to get it rust proofed. Over and above the benefits of no rust, the one aspect of Krown rarely talked about is how it lubricates all areas of your car and makes it easier to maintain...my buddy and garage owner has commented about this while working on our cars for years.

Now that I have been using Krown for over 15 years and on numerous vehicles, I feel pretty comfortable making a strong recommendation. Like changing your oil regularly, getting Krown applied each year will protect your investment, keep your car looking great and make it easier to maintain. If I sound like a Krown commercial it is only because I have first hand experience with its benefits and on a bunch of cars. It works.

August 21, 2015 @ 9:00 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Ya, I sound like kind of a commerical for rust proofing in general too but it really is because it is so worth it. 

August 22, 2015 @ 1:21 am
Taylor's picture

After reading the posts and some research on the web I decided to go with the Corrosion Free on our 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan. I definitely stayed away from the manufacturers rustproofing because it was only done one time. When i bought my 2003 F 150 it was done by the dealer. After 5 years it started to rot out and I wasn't gonna go that route again. I was kinda leary about going to Crappy T for the application. " Figured I don't need any extra tools left in the van" Went on Corrosion Frees web site and found Fine Details in Peterborough. Phoned them up and spoke to Mike who was very informative about the product. Brought the van there and got it sprayed. Very happy with the application. Hopefully this stuff works i guess time will tell.

August 25, 2015 @ 2:39 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I'm planning to switch to Corrosion Free myself from Rust Check this fall. I finally found a place about 20 minutes drive away that isn't Canadian Tire to do it. I'm excited about that! Hope it turns out to be as good as it sounds and the research suggests!

August 27, 2015 @ 11:03 pm
Jass's picture

Its a good post.After reading all i wanago to Corrosion Free .Any one suggest me which shop is best for price and service? How much you pay and how long you have to stay there ?In or around Brampton/Mississauga will be preferred.


August 30, 2015 @ 3:55 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

This is not my area so I have no idea.

I would suggest you use the Corrosion Free tool to find shops in your area and just call them quickly for a price quote. They will probably all be the same or very close. I wouldn't spend a lot of time on it.

August 31, 2015 @ 11:07 am
Pavel's picture


After reading this article, I went with Corrosion Free. Crappy Tire wanted $130 for a car, so I phoned an independent dealer. Turns out they have a promotion: Complete package for $100 for a car..

Popular Car Wash & Detailing
131 The West Mall
Etobicoke, On
M9C 1C2


If I understood them correctly, they are open 7 days a week.

P.S. Cash is not accepted. But they accept debit/credit, including AmEx.

P.P.S. I'm not affiliated with that dealer in any way. I just had a great service experience (technician took about 45 min to do my vehicle). Crappy Tire said that it takes 30 min.

October 10, 2015 @ 8:38 pm
Paul's picture

I had my wife's car done at Popular Car Wash and I won't be going back. They applied way too much inside the doors. It was dripping onto the garage floor for a good three weeks after application. They didn't do the trunk lid or either of the rear quarter panels. Those are the most critical parts. I had to do those myself.

January 30, 2016 @ 11:19 pm
Todor Stamatov
Todor Stamatov's picture

Hello. What i should buy for rust-proof, given that i live in Bulgaria? How can i purchase some of this product and which one should i get?

September 18, 2015 @ 8:31 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

That's a good question Todor. I don't know what the products would be that are available in your area. You'll have to do a bit of digging yourself. Just stick with a spray-on product like the ones I listed here and you should be good.

September 21, 2015 @ 3:32 pm
Terry Sansford
Terry Sansford's picture

I went online this morning to do a search for best results of rust proofing and came upon this site. This is the most current an unbiased site I found. I have a 2015 Dodge Ram that I intend to get rust proofed within a week or so. I was leaning toward Krown but I think I may reconsider and do Corrosion Free. The only place that can do it in my area is Canadian Tire. I will check for references in the area. My question is, Is there a better time in the year to get this done. I have no choice but to get it done in the fall but, have I pushed it off too late. There is no snow , ice or salt flying yet.

Appreciate your feedback.

October 23, 2015 @ 9:50 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I consider the best time of year to do it to be the fall, but that isn't based on empirical evidence. I've ready other opinions that the time of year really doesn't matter as the protection lasts equally well throughout the year. Salt is the big worry of course, so I figure having the thickest coat before winter is best.

Now that I am switching to Corrosion Free myself and you only need to do it every 18 months, I guess I will just alternate between fall and spring.

October 25, 2015 @ 8:26 pm
Antonio Oliveira
Antonio Oliveira's picture

Another fan of Corrosion Free 3000 here. Have been having my two vehicles (Corolla and Sequoia) treated over the past few years and could not be happier with the results. As other members have mentioned, the quality of the protection you get is highly dependent on how well the product is applied. On that note, if you are in Mississauga and vicinities, I would highly recommend Robinson Automotive. Just Google these guys out. The shop owners Kirk and Mike Robinson (father and son), are the same guys who host that auto show on Rogers TV. After the Corrosion Free product is sprayed and while your car is still on the hoist, they will bring you over to supervise the results of the application. This is great, as nothing is better than seeing the results with your own eyes. As part of the package, they will also do your doors, wheel wells, trunk, hood, etc... And again, you can inspect the results and get your peace of mind. The only downside is that price wise, I believe Robinson does charge a little more than the competition (just had my vehicles done yesterday, Oct 27, 2015 and paid $159 for the Corolla and $199 for the Sequoia, before tax), but again, this is one of those cases where you get what you pay for. As I plan to keep these vehicles for a decade at least, I think it is worthy it in the long run.

October 28, 2015 @ 4:50 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Knowing the application is done right is definitely worth it! Also, with only having to go every 18 months that reduces the price compared to the competitors a fair bit too.

October 30, 2015 @ 11:28 pm
Patrick's picture

I have been Rustproofing vehicles for the last Thirty years….I have prepped every car for treatment, thats one of the key points to a good job…..We have documented all the vehicles going back to the early eighties. each manufacturers, each Model, and by year. Where to make entry points and where to use factory entry points. We keep the application as seamless as possible. undercarriages are all in my head, and also the technicians, that have been with me the last 20 years. I own two 20 year old Toyota vehicles and one 22 year old Lexus Vehicle.
Annual sprays makes a big difference. the proof is looking underside of the vehicles that were treated properly from new , compare to those , that come in after the factory warranty has ran out…Big mistake for most….
Toyota and Lexus, probably the best common sense builders in the Industry. you just have to look underside and compare to others….remember bad body construction and materials is not to blame on Rustproofers, regardless of what they treating your vehicle with…We have seen it over the years, from paint bubbles on new cars, to metal breakdown because of poor sheet metal from suppliers to manufacturers…keep on top of your stone chip , do not wait for it to turn rusty red, you are now in a whole different can of worms at this point. I could go on and on about the subject…..like Lexus we are constantly pursuing perfection on how to apply the product into areas, most people do not even know exist… I like to let my customers watch it done from start to finish sometimes. most common remark is , they never did that part before, or I did not know you could get to that area without making a hole….
Experience! I treat all cars as if they were mine…….Good luck to all….Keep them clean…….
Our holes are painted and greased, before application, after plugs with the product is used …started this back in 93….

October 28, 2015 @ 10:33 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Nice to hear that there people who care so much about this process Patrick. If only every person who was applying rust proofing cared as much as you do!

October 30, 2015 @ 11:30 pm
Roberto's picture


You obviously care about doing it right. Where is your shop located?

November 01, 2015 @ 5:55 pm
Patrick's picture

Markham and Finch, Scarborough…….416-754-2128

December 08, 2015 @ 9:46 am
Daniel's picture

I like the fact that you treat the holes after protection is applied Patrick! I had a bad experience with Zeibart back in the 90's. Where they drilled the holes in the vehicle was the first place the car began to rust. They did not want to fix it and when they finally did they did an inferior job! By the way Patrick where is your shop located or can you recommend anyone in the Richmond Hill area of Ontario.

December 04, 2015 @ 2:58 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Since two people have now expressed interest in Patrick's shop location, I will send him an email and request that he come back here and leave the contact details for his shop. I don't normally allow people to advertise their business in the comments, but when there is a demand for someone who has genuinely tried to help out other commenters, I don't have a problem with it.

December 07, 2015 @ 10:04 am
Patrick's picture

Dan My shop is located at (Markham and Finch) Scarborough….South East Corner… Give us a ring before you come in ….416-754-2128…. No German cars Please….

December 07, 2015 @ 9:53 pm
Michel's picture

Can you buy corrosion free from can tire and do it yourself?
I know they sell rust check can, but havent see any corrosion free.
Inguess you need about a gallon to do a whole car. I have an oil shooting kit.

My friend use a mix of 50% Used Engine Oil and 50% diesel for his car and agricultural machinery.
It seem to work and its cheap

November 01, 2015 @ 8:57 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

You can buy the Corrosion Free liquid online in their online store, but it doesn't look like you can buy it in-store at Canadian Tire. Maybe they are trying to make sure people aren't DIYing it to make more money (don't know) or they have an in-store exclusive with Rust Check (who knows).

Anyway, try picking it up online if you really want to DIY.

November 02, 2015 @ 2:40 pm
Mike's picture

I just purchased a 5 gallon jug of Corrosion Free, and an RP 460 HD Lemmer spray kit to apply it. I just purchased a truck before Christmas, a 2012 GMC 4x4 with 65,000K. The body is rust free, but the chassis looks worse than my friends 2011 with 190,000K on it. I did my research before purchasing this stuff, and since I have access to a shop with a hoist, applying it myself was a no brainer, since Canadian Tire is the only place near me that does it... Yeah, that wasn't happening. LOL It cost $550 for the product and application kit. I was very happy with the Lemmer kit, it had all the attachments I needed to reach every little crevice. It took at least 3 hours to do the entire truck, even with experience, I can't see it taking any less than an hour of constant spraying. The stuff is nice to work with when compared to the oil based products like Krown or Rust Check, it really doesn't smell at all, just a slight waxy odour. I also found that it atomized very well, going on completely clear, no white spots where air is trapped.

Time will tell me how this product actually works, but I'm encouraged by the reports I've seen so far. I know the application was done well, we coated EVERY nit of the under carriage, and every single hem. GM trucks have excellent access holes for getting to the rockers and door hems, as well as to the back cab corners... All in all, very pleased with the application process of the product, much less overspray than with Krown, and the odour was not offensive at all. We sprayed both trucks very thoroughly, using roughly half the 5 gallon pail.

January 24, 2016 @ 1:57 am
Mike's picture

I should add... not a single drip came off the trucks during the application process. It's been in my garage for 4 hours now, still not a single drop. I can tell you for certain, that when I've used Krown or Rust Check in the past, there have always been plenty of drips by now... so far, so good!

January 24, 2016 @ 2:04 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Excellent additional detail Mike. Great job doing it all yourself. After a few years, come on back if you remember and update us on how your trucks make out in the rust department.

January 24, 2016 @ 7:29 pm
Patrick's picture

Both Engine Oil and Diesel are toxic, also careful not to get near exhaust system, might have issues.
RUST CHECK is non toxic. and has a high flash point.

December 07, 2015 @ 9:56 pm
Ron's picture


I purchased my Mazda3 GT new in 2005. I had it Krowned the day I bought it, and every year since. Average cost $105 +tx a year.

Obviously, you are well aware of the first generation 3s issues with rust, and it was so bad that Mazda extended their rust warranty to 7 years for 04s 05s and 06s. I drive my 3 daily and through all the grud the winters bring here in Toronto. They love spreading that salt here btw, anyways 10.5 years later not a spec of rust on any body panel and I have been told by several technicians that the underneath of my car is the best they've seen for my era. I wash her religiously and keep her well waxed, paying special attention to prone areas aswell.

I've read up on Corrosion free and it sounds enticing, only issue is I haven't seen too many testimony's to its abilities, atleast not as many as to Krown, which has thousands.I will continue to use Krown for this vehicle but will consider Corrosion free for my next.



November 02, 2015 @ 2:57 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Nice to hear from another rust-prone Mazda 3 owner Ron. Sounds like you made out even better with your 3 and Krown than I did with mine and Rust Check. A lot of that is probably due to your washing and waxing as well. Unfortunately, I just can't find the time to keep up with that stuff even though I want to.

Great info, thanks!

November 03, 2015 @ 11:17 am
Ian's picture

I use Krown, which many reports indicates is best. Corrosion Free is thicker, but Krown creeps into every nook of tge vehicle, protects wiring and motors as well.

November 09, 2015 @ 10:35 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Well, I can't really speak to the creeping aspect. I know they pretty much all claim that they have creeping action but I don't know of any study that has proved one creeps better than the other. If you know of such a study you can link to, please do so.

EDIT: I just finished reading through the following forum thread. At first they make it sound like Corossion Free doesn't creep, but in the end it is revealed through observation that it doesn't drip but does indeed creep. Good read for those who are interested:


November 09, 2015 @ 7:36 pm
Gisele Thibeault
Gisele Thibeault's picture

I have heard that Corrosion Free blackens the engine. Is that true? I have a 2010 Suzuki SX4 with low mileage and when I lift the hood, the engine looks brand new. I would hate to see it all greasy and black.

November 09, 2015 @ 11:25 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I think most/all of these spray on products will blacken the engine. I don't know that for sure, but that has definitely been my experience with Rust Check. It is simply oil that can be wiped off, but it isn't pretty.

However, I'd rather have a car that lasts and looks good on the outside. I'm willing to deal with the dirty engine compartment.

November 09, 2015 @ 7:35 pm
Gisele Thibeault
Gisele Thibeault's picture

Thank you for your input Stephen.

November 09, 2015 @ 11:48 pm
Jamie's picture

I recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota. The previous owner said that he sprayed Rustoleum non-rubberized bedliner spray on the underneath of the vehicle. There are a couple of rust spots that I have taken care of since purchasing the vehicle a few months ago. I would like to keep the vehicle for several years so would like to use a good rust proofing product. I initially was going to use a product called Fluid Film until I recently heard about a product called Krown. In doing some research to compare the products I came across this website and heard about Corrosion Free. I went to Corrosion Free's website and there is a place in Masury, OH which is about 60 miles away that applies Corrosion Free. There is a place about 15 minutes away that applies Fluid Film. If you were in my situation which would you choose provided both places do a good job installing the products (not sure how I can find out how good a job each place does at installing the products)?

November 14, 2015 @ 5:06 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

I know nothing about Fluid Film, so I can't really say how it will perform in the long term. I would do your research on that and look for forum discussions about it comparing it to other products. 60 minutes is a bit of a long drive to go for Corossion Free though. I might opt to go with Krown in your case if they had a place close by that applies it.

In terms of installing the products, look for a place that specializes in rust proofing over a place that does a lot of different types of work first of all. Then, start asking them questions about their application process and you could even ask them if you could watch them apply it to see exactly what they do.

November 17, 2015 @ 11:59 am
Patrick's picture

Funny listening to all these comments, on the different Rustproofing Companies, I can tell everyone is young, Both Krown and Corrosion Free..were all started by form RUST CHECK personel….

Rust check original formula if sprayed on any brand new car , that has no previous, wax or tar materials on it gets you the best result, Providing its done properly….thats the key. thats where most Companies fail. owners are never under every car to see if its done properly. Thats going to be my Legacy when I retire. and my customers. already started to panic…ha!

AS for Mazda yes they are prone to more corrosion, some from lack of good materials, throughout the underbody, and some of the older generations. rear tire give those rear fenders a blasting. If you look at Toyota products …see what they do in those areas to counter that issue. Also try not to love tap the back bumpers. usually end results are bubbles on the paint around the areas where its attach to rear quarter panel…

Mazda should never be drilled in Rockers also. in front of Rear tire there is plug there. remove and run a long tube to the front and spray, also there are a few underbody cross section that have plugs to remove and spray, some of the holes are taped up just punter and spray inside. Keeps brine and water away from potentially exposed metal and welds. Good luck to you all.

December 07, 2015 @ 10:12 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Thanks for the additional commentary Patrick.

December 08, 2015 @ 4:47 pm
dave's picture

I have used Krown in all my vehicles. I had a 2002 Montana van and after six years gave it to my
daughter ,who kept it for another five and not a speck of rust on it.The same as my 2008 Santa Fe.
No rust after seven years. The only problem is the dripping on the road or driveway for a couple of days.
But if it is dripping off,then I know it is seeping into all the nooks and crevises

November 14, 2015 @ 6:51 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Yes, Krown is undeniably a good product. One pro of Corossion Free is that it drips a whole lot less. I addressed the creeping issue in a comment a few above yours.

November 17, 2015 @ 12:00 pm
Mike's picture

Actually, the way I look at it is; if it's dripping off, it has inferior adhesion, gravity is pulling it away from the hems it's supposed to be protecting.

January 24, 2016 @ 2:14 am
Anthony's picture

Any tips on finding a good shop to do your rust proofing at? Checking the Krown and Corrosion Free websites indicates that neither has a dealer in Edmonton and some of the Rust Check locations seem to be closed.

November 21, 2015 @ 3:49 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Wow, someone could be set to make a killing in Edmonton then as there really are limited options. I wouldn't be concerned at all about going with Rust Check. I have been using them for years with good results. You are still going to get value for your money, just maybe not quite as good as you would at Krown or Corrosion Free.

Rust Check also has a new dripless product. I'm not aware of any studies on that product, but it is possible that it is formulated more like Corrosion Free. Since it is a newer product, it stands to reason that they would have tried to make it as good as possible to better compete. You could ask them about that when you go in the first time.

November 23, 2015 @ 8:58 am
Raymond K
Raymond K's picture

Patrick: Why " no German cars please" ? I bought a 2015 VW Golf. Is it necessary to do rust proofing as VW offers 12 years warranty on Rusting?

December 19, 2015 @ 9:02 pm
lucretius's picture

I have a 2013 Volkswagen CC -- black colour.

Rust/paint peeling began to appear on/near the rocker panel by the drivers door of my car. Volkswagen Canada denied the rust claim under warranty.

On December 17, 2015, I took the car to the dealer to show the rust coming from underneath and eating away at the paint on the rocker panel. The dealer took pictures and submitted them to Volkswagen Canada. Yesterday (i.e. one and one half months later), I learned that Volkswagen Canada denied the claim stating the rust and paint peeling was caused by "outside influences".

This is preposterous. The rust was bleeding through from underneath causing the paint to peel away. This damage is located on or at the rocker panel/door sills by the driver's door. The damaged spot is protected by the driver's door, so that it is not exposed to flying debris from the road.

There is no evidence of "outside influences" as claimed by Volkswagen Canada. There is no lack of care, or failure to promptly repair. I did not get any third party rustproofing done, so there was no use of any inferior rustproofing agent or method. There is no evidence of environmental damage.

This is Volkswagen Canada's method of denying warranty claims. Although Volkswagen Canada has a 12 year warranty against rust, this warranty appears worthless.

February 02, 2016 @ 1:08 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Wow, that's really bad. I'd consider trying to either push this up the chain at VW or getting in touch with the media. Bang down VWs doors on social media and see if you can get the email addresses of some of their head honchos.

You might also give Ellen Roseman a try. Send her the pictures and describe your situation and she  might be able to tell you who to get in touch with.

February 03, 2016 @ 4:31 pm
lucretius's picture

I called the customer relations number and got some low level person who could not offer any more information and said the decision was final and she could not elevate my call or query to anyone else. So I opened up a case here:


I also submitted a complaint to the BBB, although I don't think this will have any effect. And, there were already other similar complaints.

Thanks for the advice -- I may give Ellen Roseman a shot and try to track down key VW email addresses.

February 03, 2016 @ 9:10 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Sounds like you are doing everything you can - that's actually the first I've heard of camvap and it definitely looks like the right place for your complaint. Might as well go at it from as many angles as you can though in case one of them doesn't work out and so that they know you mean business.

February 05, 2016 @ 10:22 am
lucretius's picture

Just an update --

After being contacted by the BBB and the Canadian Motor Vehicle Arbitration Plan, Volkswagen Canada did contact me directly with an offer of a "goodwill gesture". I have accepted the "goodwill gesture' and I am satisfied with the latest action taken by Volkswagen Canada. Thanks!

February 21, 2016 @ 4:05 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Too bad they only offer any goodwill when their backs are against the wall being threatened by poor publicity. Oh well, I'm sure a few people will read your comments here and be turned off from VW. If that sort of thing keeps happening, then their reputation will keep taking a nosedive and their business will suffer.

Really glad you are going to be able to get your vehicle fixed with the costs covered!

February 22, 2016 @ 12:37 pm
Steph's picture


I've read through your comments and I just have a quick question. I'm planning to pick up my new car (2015 Micra) next week and I'm debating whether I should rust proof it with Corrosion Free now or wait a few months to make sure there's no other problems with the car. The Corrosion Free warranty covers new vehicles within the first year of purchase, so if I wait do you think it would make a big difference quality wise? I.e. would it really make a big difference to just rust proof it fresh out of the dealership vs a few months down the road?

Also, I know very little about cars so when I go to get the rust proofing done, is there a good video/diagram or anything specific I should check after it's done to make sure everything was applied properly? I don't know any trustworthy mechanics (in Markham area), so I'll just be going to the closest independent shop to get Corrosion Free applied. Thank you!

March 16, 2016 @ 12:16 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Hi Steph. Waiting for a few months and rust proofing closer to next winter is probably fine. Doing it sooner wouldn't hurt either though. It isn't like you can really return a car anyway.

I don't know of any videos that show people properly applying rust proofing but there could be something out there on YouTube. Just ask them if you can watch them apply it and try to see if they are being thorough. If it takes them 20 minutes, they probably aren't.

March 18, 2016 @ 3:28 pm
Matt's picture

Any good shops that can apply corrosion free in Scarborough other than Canadian tires? I checked the corrosion free dealers on their website and only Canadian tire comes up near scarborough. Thanks

April 07, 2016 @ 11:42 am
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Not that I know of Matt - you could try calling their customer service but I'm assuming their website is up to date.

April 07, 2016 @ 2:42 pm
30 Year Rust Check Customer
30 Year Rust Check Customer's picture

Just got gouged $650 for pollution control contamination resulting from loose/expanded rubber fittings the dealer attributed to Rust Check which promotes itself as 'oil based'. Didn't get much argument from my long time Rust Check dealer who offered a couple of free sprays. Have never had any rust on the 5 or 6 vehicles I've owned that were treated by Rust Check but it now appears there are some trade offs.

May 11, 2016 @ 8:38 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Well, at least you got reimbursed by your dealer. I'm looking forward to less problems with seals now that I've switched to Corrosion Free.

May 13, 2016 @ 2:33 pm
Dennis Olsen
Dennis Olsen's picture

Whatever you try don't use ziebart. The under coating and bed liner are complete garbage.

May 16, 2016 @ 2:35 pm
Rajesh's picture

I recently bought 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan Mini Van. Car is run 104K and it is vlean car except it has lots of rust in bottom parts despite previous owner took Rust proofing package from Dealer when he purchased this car in 2010. I am thinking of keeping this car as long as it runs, My question , Is it worth going for Rust proofing when you inherit car, which already has rust? Does it make sense to rust proof used car. I am also interested in knowing reliable Corrosion free dealer in Markham.


May 16, 2016 @ 5:34 pm
Stephen Weyman
Stephen Weyman's picture

Yes, absolutely it is still worth rust proofing. Spray on liquid rust proofing products like those discussed here coat the metal and prevent air and moisture from reaching it which will cause the metal to rust further. It essentially stops the chemical process of rusting from being able to happen.

Nothing is better than rust proofing before the rust can start, but if you aren't planning to replace all the rusted parts and just want them to last longer, absolutely do it. Even if you are going to replace some of the rusted parts, you still want to prevent those parts that you don't replace and don't look like problems now from becoming problems.

May 16, 2016 @ 9:08 pm

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